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  1. Last week
  2. Unfortunately Awlgrip is very difficult to repair and the smallest quantity sold is a quart. You can't buff out awlgrip because it will scratch it and remove the high gloss. If it's just a few small scratches you could use an artist brush and paint them in. The best remedy is to bring it to a professional shop.
  3. Looking for the best remedy to touch-up small scratches in my flag-blue Awlgrip finish...thanks
  4. Ok, thanks for the picture. I see what you mean. My recommendation is to grind that out beveling the edges out about 2 to 3 " beyond the damage. Clean well with acetone. Cut out 1708 biaxial cloth to fill the damage area, first layer just a little bigger than the inside of the hole, the next larger to overlap the first, then another larger lay up until you covered the whole area and are almost out to the edge. Lay it up with 5:1 epoxy resin. You can finish the last layer with 4 or 6 oz fiberglass cloth for a smoother finish. Let that cure up overnight. Then wash with water in case there is any amine blush, sand with 80 grit, then clean well with acetone. Then you can use a polyester fairing compound to fair out the area. When that is cured, sand smooth, clean with acetone and then gel coat over to finish.
  5. That did seem like lot of Ques when I looked back, feel free to ignore gunwales ques. I'm not questioning your advice RickW: but I've heard that epoxy is "stickier" and more waterproof, so it's because I want gelcoat on outside and only polyester works for this?
  6. If you are going to use gel coat as a finish coat use polyester resin or out Polyester Fairing compound. It would help if you could send a couple pictures.
  7. Fiberglass canoe project with hole in bottom - need advice I took on this project; there is hole near the front in center, it's about a 12" gash, (keel if a small ridge can be called that), looks like it has been repaired once before, on inside has a blister (delam I guess). (I'll get some pics up soon so u can see damage both sides) Obvious Ques.: polyester or epoxy resin? Gelcoat and gelcoat color? It's already 2 shades of yellow is painting a good idea, is there special paint? *Would spruce be good substitute for mahogany gunwales from standpoint of bending to follow curve and holding screws? I've heard finish should be Not varnish but oil? I've seen boats with some kind of standoff interior gunwale, is this about having continuous tie down points? My pics are over the limit - It's a no name 16' x 32" canoe, has 2 wooden seats and yoke attached at gunwales.
  8. Earlier
  9. I'd recommend Sikaflex 291 Here is the link:
  10. please suggest what to fill the two lower though hull POD mount bolts they are under water line I believe there is seepage include name and brand glue.
  11. bought 2 cans initially. used 1 and about 50% of second.
  12. Bill, Did you get a replacement quart of the Epifanes WF Gloss to see if a new can did the same or was that last picture using the same product? Sorry it didn't work out, we usually don't see problems with Epifanes products.
  13. so after applying epifanes wood finish gloss to two separate 8x8 areas over two days and covering each immediately with a bucket to rule out dust, both produced dozens of microbubbles overnight. varnish went on beautifully and was smooth as glass upon application...overnight however bubbles formed each time. So had enough and took out my heat gun, scraper and sander yesterday and got that crap off the horizontal decks and gonna paint them to match outside hull which is a Kirby enamel that went on beautifully. very disappointing to have a product fail and even more disappointing to have epifanes tech support claim that problem was dust and ignore subsequent emails with images showing results when applications were covered with a bucket to eliminate dust as an option. sure they've got much larger customers to focus on, but they don't have a customer who will have a boat to be prouder of than this one.
  14. talked to tech support guy from epiphanes just now and he swears it's dust based on description of process, etc. tried zooming in on whatever it is with magnifying glass and can't tell. took pic with good digital camera zoomed way in an it's attached. dust ? took lots of dust precautions including covering last coat with new plastic sheet about 12 in above work but ends were open...dust would have had to move horizonally 6-8 feet sideways to get under plastic. is dust that evil ??? I've actually sprayed finishes in same garage with 4 stage hvlp with very little dust issues, but maybe that's it ??
  15. You could use the Totalboat Wet Edge single part polyurethane or Interlux Brightside which are more colors but you will need to sand the old paint off, etch wash, Total protect primer then the topside paint.
  16. OK, lets start by eliminating some causes. 1. Did you strain the varnish? 2. Are you sure your brush is totally clean, no small dust particles in it? Clean well, and before using it shake it out well, then dab it on some masking tape wrapped around your hand with the sticky side out. 3. What kind of heater are you using? Could that be blowing dust around or causing bubbles. 4. Are there bubbles on the surface when brushing or do they appear after when it's drying? It's difficult to tell if they are bubbles or dust particles. I can't tell from the picture.
  17. Thanks! I was hoping to do a 2 tone paint job with some blue. Is there a similar product with a wider color range?
  18. Have applied 3 coats of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss per below and have thousands of microbubbles. thought I'd avoid lots of sanding and go with this product that can be recoated without sanding within 72 hrs and has rave reviews on this site, amazon, etc. ended up with a big mess. 1) coat 1 applied with china brush over west system cured for at least 6 months, sanded 220 and vacuumed/wiped with denatured alcohol rags 2) 24 hrs later lots of microbubbles that I thought were dust so sanded to 320 wiped with tack cloth as was worried about denatured alcohol potentially causing issues and recoated with brush again 3) 24 hrs later enormous number of bubbles (see attached photo) so sanded to 320 again, vacuumed and waited additional 24 hrs for dust to settle and wiped with denatured alcohol rags again and recoated with brush and immediately covered with new plastic dropcloth suspended 12 inches above surface and vented on both ends of boat. been 2 days since last coat and I have the mess you see in the spotlighted area of the attached photo completely covering all surfaces varnished. I've spent over 300 hrs on this custom west system/marine plywood driftboat and used mahogany and tiger maple so brightwork would be stunning but now have a mess. shop temp was consistent 70 degrees using heaters. what do you think is going on and how do I fix...?
  19. If it was previously painted, you will want to sand that with 220 grit and prime, then the topside paint. If it's gelcoat, you will want to clean it well, sand with 220 grit, dewax with a dewaxing solvent, then prime with a two part epoxy primer. If you choose Brightside use the Interlux primer. If you choose Wet Edge use the Totalboat primer.
  20. The best solution would be to apply a coat of epoxy, we have Gluvit Epoxy Water Sealer that will work well. You can apply a coat of paint on that. Here is the link:
  21. We have an Aluminum Boat Topside paint that would be good in your application if the colors offered fit your need. Here is the link: This paint doesn't need a primer and can go over existing paint in good condition, just sand and apply.
  22. totalboat 2:1 is NOT blush free. Don't be fooled by what they put on the lable. Don't think you can trust their clames! For about the same price you should use west systems epoxy. they've been around longer and they don't scam their customers.
  23. I imagine this question is asked often but with the cost of paint I really want to ensure that I have selected the correct products. I have a 12’ fiberglass fishing boat badly in need of paint. This boat will only be in the water while in use, always in fresh water, and sitting on a trailer at all other times. The research that I have done seems to indicate that a topside paint would be acceptable since the boat will not be in the water for any extended period of time. I would appreciate your recommendations for a suitable primer, paint and thinner. Based on feedback from others it looks like either TotalBoat Wet Edge Topside or Interlux Brightside would be my best bet. Thanks in advance for your advice.
  24. So the boat isn't sinking or anything, but I have a very light weight 14' aluminum fishing boat from the 1950s that I pulled out of the woods. I have gotten it into working order, but some of the rivets leak a good bit. I've heard horror stories about people who attempt to fix this and make the problem worse. I plan to paint the boat soon, so I'd like to fix this before I put the new paint on. Any suggestions, or should I just flatten them out a bit more with a hammer and steel as I've planned? Thanks!
  25. To piggy back on this topic, I am painting a 1950s 14' aluminum fishing boat and I had a couple questions. I have a mix of raw aluminum and paint since I pulled this out of the woods basically. I assume that this means that I need to sand down to bare aluminum, etch, prime and then pain it, correct? Also, I trailer my boat between fishing trips. Do I need bottom paint? Would it help keep down the roller rub wear? -Thanks!
  26. Thanks.
  27. The Thixo is fine for a gap filler or adhesive but to extend the edge you would need to add some fiberglass cloth and resin for structural strength. Fiberglass cloth and regular epoxy resin would be what you want to use.
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