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  2. I'd recommend 5:1 epoxy resin thickened with a little wood flour for the adhesive. Use a good marine spar varnish to finish it for UV protection.
  3. I'm rebuilding my Sitka Spruce main and mizzen for my 1968 Cheoy Lee. Please advise a proper adhesive and process . They need structural integrity and long term UV resistance . As I must break open some joints , I'm expecting potential voids from splintering as well as commonChecking.
  4. To varnish over teak oil, you would need to remove the oil finish. Take a look at our Totalboat Halcyon Varnish. It's a water based varnish in a bag, very easy to apply and dries quickly. Here is the link: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=336256&familyName=TotalBoat+Halcyon+Rugged+Marine+Varnish
  5. We don't have a two part paint like Awlgrip in the Totalboat product lineup, only a single part polyurethane like Wet Edge. A lower cost alternative would be Epifanes Two Part Polyurethane and we can mix that in Awlgrip colors.
  6. I have a boat with oiled teak interior and to help prevent mold during the winter and humid seasons I would like to varnish it. I would like recommendations for easy apply varnishes or polyurethanes. I think wpie-on would be easier than brush. Anyone know some good products?
  7. I recently decided to give the Totalboat product line a shot and I think I have fallen in love. Not only the products, but the price and just the way that Totalboat and Jamestown Dist. handle the Totalboat business. I am the owner of a boat restoration company who specializes in wood boat restorations. I am currently in the middle of a project on an old Rybovich where the customer is looking for a more cruising yacht color scheme of blue hull and cream deck and topside for the new finish. She has picked out colors on the Awlgrip spectrum and I was wondering if there is a color match pallet / pigments for the Totalboat product line that I could offer up as an option for this customer? I have been asked to value engineer where I can by this customer, but I would also like to know if there is more versatility in products going forward.
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  9. You will need to remove all the bottom paint down to gel coat. Slight discoloration is ok but paint removed.
  10. Thank you. Is 100% removal of the existing bottom paint necessary or just the loose material sanded and feathered out where it's chipped and rough?
  11. Yes, you will need to remove all the bottom paint. Make the needed repairs. I would fair the repairs with Total Fair after the epoxy repair. Then if you want to use a regular topside paint on the bottom (so long as it doesn't stay in the water more than a day or two) you will want to apply 2 coats of Total Protect Epoxy Barrier Coat Primer, sand smooth, clean and apply 2 to 3 coats of a topside paint.
  12. I have recently purchased a 1991 Scout 172 Sportfish that has at least a few coats of bottom paint. The boat has been trailered for at least the past few years that I know of and I will continue to trailer it with no plans for it to sit in the water. There is some minor cracking/impact damage to the bottom and heavy chipping in the paint where it has been riding on the bunks that I'd like to fix and smooth out. Then repaint the bottom and hull in either the original Scout sand color or in a bright white. How can I best achieve this goal? My thoughts were to pressure wash and then sand off all loose bottom paint. Grind out the cracks and minor damage and make proper epoxy repairs. But then I am not sure of how to proceed. Am i stuck with more bottom paint or can I use an epoxy primer over everything, maybe then some fairing filler over the epoxy primer where its might be needed, spot prime the filler and repaint ? Any advice and specific product recommendations would highly appreciated.
  13. Keeping growth off metal running gear like trim tabs is a real challenge. I've found that if you sand down to clean metal and put a couple coats of barrier coat primer like Totalboat Total Protect, then a couple coats of antifouling paint, that combination works the best.
  14. My 30 FT walkaround is docked in the Ashley River in Charleston SC. I applied your JD Spartan bottom paint two years ago and it is still doing great with very little growth. The barnacles and vegetation that does grow comes off with little effort on the fiberglass haul. The running gear,trim tabs and anything else metal ,was painted at the same time, is totally opposite. What should I be doing differently to stop the growth. Thank you, Dale
  15. Varnishes are not very abrasive resistant, but the hardest are the two part polyurethanes like Totalboat Envy and Interlux Perfection plus, they are very clear though and cannot be applies on top of a single part varnish. In the Single Part group, our Totalboat Halcyon waterbase varnish, once fully cured is very hard and can be applied over single part finishes.
  16. What is the best marine varnish for abrasive resistance?
  17. Rick Thanks for the background info.
  18. So on my 1996 Dauntless 17 I have an old Johnson Ocean Runner V4 90. The tach doesn't work and the battery does not charge. To me, this focuses my attention on the rectifier. I'm not going to be able to get out to the boat until Saturday at the earliest. So I ask, does anyone know the part number?
  19. Wow Rick, thank you for that information. So work everything from the INSIDE. OK. I am not sure what the thickness of my cloth is so will probably run down to my local Boatyard and ask for some scrap 6oz. Thank you again. Actually, you know, I will order my GFlex from you and if you have small quantities of Cloth, that too. Your customer service here on the Interweb is fantastic. What a service. I have posted on Bottom Paint for my Dyer. I'd like to send you some Pictures of the Flaking in the Cabin and Cockpit to find out if I just paint or will need to learn how to work with Gelcoat. Thank you again. Bill
  20. Thanks for the pictures. You will need to grind down the edges of the hole to bevel it out so you can lay up fiberglass cloth. Cut some 6 oz cloth slightly larger than the hole, and a few more with each one larger than the previous to fill the hole to the thickness of the hull. Use West System GFlex epoxy to wet out the fiberglass. First use a torch and heat the hull where you will be applying the epoxy, careful not to melt it, just a few quick passes over the area. Wet out the fiberglass and apply the smallest piece first, then the next larger until you fill to the hull thickness. I would do this from the inside to minimize the amount of fairing required on the outside prior to paint.
  21. The 2:1 is a slightly lower viscosity and supposed to be blush-free. The 5:1 does and will perform well in vacuum bagging applications, it is slightly stronger than 2:1 but not by much. In vacuum bagging, if you use peel ply it will remove any possible blush when it is removed and in the bagging process the atmosphere is really limited which will reduce any blush. So the bottom line is you can use 2:1 or 5:1 resin, both will work. If you are doing a large layup, the 2:1 will flow a little better.
  22. Here is another picture.
  23. So here are two pictures of my failed repair. One shows clearly, the layer of 3M Marine Premium Filler that I used to fair in the repair. I didn't want the Fiberglass cloth to overlap the edge of the hole because then it would be impossible to make it "undetectable". Perhaps it is because of this that the interior layer of Fiberglass Cloth and the exterior layer may not have boded? The interior was done first, let dry then the exterior. I used West System 205. Suggestions?
  24. I have some vacuum bagging to do and the description says I should use a 2:1 kit. Fine. I will but why? What is the 5:1 better for (anything?) It seems more prone to amine blush. It is more brittle. Thanks.
  25. Rick thank you for answering both my questions. The other one in bottom paint. Royalex is plastic, correct? Or similar. My canoe is not with me currently. I will take a pic or two and get back to you with details. Thank you. Bill
  26. The important part is to use a 5 to 1 ratio of Resin to Hardener. It doesn't matter which hardener you use. You can even mix the fast and the slow hardener together to get a medium cure rate so long as the resin and hardener ratio is 5 parts resin to 1 part hardener.
  27. Hi, I am building the FS 14 from Bateau. I'm currently using the West System standard epoxy resin and the slow hardner. I'm almost to the end of a can of the slow hardner and I am very frugal with my materials. That said, I am betting that I am going to run out of the hardner but I have a fresh can of fast hardner ready to go. Will the world come to an end if I mix a batch using the correct ratio of hardner and resin but mix the slow and fast in the batch?
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