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  1. Yesterday
  2. When your last coat of Total Protect Barrier coat is thumb tacky apply a coat of Underdog bottom paint. If the TotalProtect has fully cured, then sand with 80 grit and apply the bottom paint. If you can wait until just before the boat goes in the water for a second coat that would be the best for antifouling protection. If not you may experience some growth.
  3. Last week
  4. Hi, Got it. If I am OK with some fouling, but still want to protect the bottom from water intrusion, can I paint the Underdog now, knowing it is well before the launch window? I ask because our other boats are lifted out of the water in the Fall and show very little bottom fouling. And, we still have a fair amount of work to do once the boat is right side up; so I really hope to not have to flip it again before launch. Thanks again.
  5. Topside paints especially 2 part polyurethanes are very good and will last 10 plus years. If not kept clean and waxed they will fade and oxidize. Gel coat is harder and will last longer especially if waxed. I know you probably won't be going on the roof to clean and apply wax. Your choice, both will work for a relatively long time.
  6. Underdog is a single season bottom paint and needs to get in the water within the launch window to be effective. Abrading with a scotch brite just before launching would help but that is usually done on multi-season paints, not single. Since it is going to stay in the water all summer, I would wait to paint just before launch.
  7. Thanks for the response. I've been reading & searching the forums and thought that Top Side Paint fairs better than gelcoat? Especially against UV? Your thoughts?
  8. As far as I know, nothing lasts forever except death and taxes. That said, the longest lasting solution would be to re-gel-coat the top. Clean well with soap and water, sand with 80 to 120 grit and roll on another coat of gel-coat.
  9. Hi, I have followed your advice and have had good results. Thank you. The Whaler has been sprayed several coats of Wet Edge and is now ready for Underdog. We sprayed the Wet Edge because the first coat of roll and tip showed too many brush marks. A $25 dollar Harbor Freight gravity sprayer did a great job. My question: can we apply the bottom paint now when the boat is upside down even though we'll miss the launch window by six months? Can I just abrade the bottom paint with a Scotch Brite pad just before the Spring splash to refresh the anti fouling? Thanks again.
  10. I have a 45' Motorhome with a thin (1/16" - 3/32" ) fiberglass sheet for a roof covering. It is oxidized and dusting so I'm pretty sure that the gelcoat is gone. What would you recommend for painting? Durability is my first priority. I want this done right to last "forever". Thanks, Robert
  11. Earlier
  12. I'd recommend coating the wood spacer with Totalboat Clear Penetrating Epoxy. Thin the first coat 25% with acetone, the second straight. Use a caulking like Sikaflex 291 or 3M 4200 or Totalboat Total Seal. Totalboat Total Strip paint remover works well to remove bottom paint. If you are going down to bare fiberglass/gelcoat, it's a good time to apply a barrier coat like Totalboat Total Protect, 4 to 5 coats, then 2 coats of bottom paint. Not enough information to suggest a bottom paint. You can look at our bottom paint survey to see what works in your area. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/surveyMap.do?surveyId=101
  13. Hi Christine, You can mix and pour another batch on top even if it's still tacky. Just be sure to mix really well. Usually it remains tacky because that area wasn't mixed enough. No need to sand as the sticky part will not sand well. Mixing another batch and pouring after the first batch should be fine, again it must be mixed well so the hardener can do it's job.
  14. Attached is a picture of the transducer for my depth sounder and a wood spacer I made to make it vertical. Some questions: What should I paint the wood spacer with? What adhesive should I use to fasten the spacer to the transducer? To the bottom of the hull? Lastly, I plan to bottom paint the boat. I am new to all of this and need to know how to remove the old bottom paint, what paint to use and what instructions to follow to apply the new bottom paint. Just purchased a 26' Tollycraft Sedan. Very excited to get this in the water! Lots of work to do! Thank you for your time. Tim
  15. Rick, Thanks so much for the reply and the advice. Did you mean to mix the batch and pout it over after it finally cures? I have done nothing yet except keep those heaters blasting in the room. It has now been 9 days, at min. 70 degrees in the room and it's still tacky to the touch in places. It seemed to max out in it's hardening maybe 3-4 days ago and hasn't changed since. I'm hoping that you meant I could pour it over the sticky stuff. Would that be a good idea? If so, should I sand first? I was literally crying over this earlier today. I have been working a lot lately and this was pretty much the only thing I've been doing with what little free time I've had and I'm just sick about the prospect that all the time and money might be wasted. Ugh. Another thing I was wondering in reflecting back on the processes I followed was that towards the end of pouring the pour-over batch, we didn't quite have enough to cover so I mixed more but put it in the container with what was still left that had been mixed ~20 minutes earlier. Could mixing different batches being applied at the same time have caused the issues I'm seeing? Thanks. Christine
  16. Since aluminum oxidizes in air, I would sand with 80 grit to a bright finish just before applying epoxy or primer.
  17. I found a marina that water sand blasts boats to remove corrosion and or below water line buildup. my Starcraft bottom is now clean, but not smooth. The bottom has a texture similar to very fine sand paper, not slick though like it would be if sanded, or buffed. is this the best condition for primer, or should I sand the now clean (no paint or corrosion) until smooth? i do plan to apply Gluvit to seams, rivets, any pitting, and know how to prep those areas prior to priming. Thanks
  18. This product is best applied between 70 to 80 degrees. At those temperatures it could take a week to fully cure. The project is not ruined. Bring the Epoxy and the table top up to at least 70 degrees. Mix up a batch and poor it on top. It should self level and dry clear. Be sure it is mixed well. Be sure the epoxy doesn't have crystals from cold storage. STORAGE: Store at 60-90°F in a dry place. After use, tightly reseal all containers. Store products on a raised surface off the floor during cold weather and avoid storing near outside walls or doors. Epoxy resins that are contaminated with dust or moisture, or are subjected to low temperatures may crystallize. Do not use material that has any sign of crystallization until it has been liquified. A crystallized resin or hardener can be returned to its original state by heating the material to 140°F to 150°F and stirring until it returns to the liquid state.
  19. On a new factory painted bottom simply scuff sand with 80 grit and apply 2 coats of bottom paint. Use a copper free bottom paint like Totalboat Krypton so you won't have a reaction with the aluminum.
  20. Hi there. I really hope there's something I can do to save my project. I made a penny mosaic countertop and used the Tabletop Epoxy on it (pennies had already been glued down with craft glue 24+ hours earlier). It has been 60 hours and while some areas of the counter are nice and hard, there are sections where touching it leaves the impression of my fingerprints and it's gooey to the touch, but no so soft that it can be mushed around. Here are the details of what we did: The room we were working in is usually around 60 degrees so we put a space heater on high in there before starting. The bottles of epoxy were stored in that room. The space heater was not on in the room for more than an hour before we started mixing (so the ingredients were probably still very cold) Mixed the 1:1 batch gently by hand for 8-10 minutes with a thin paddle. It was thicker and more gooey than expected, but we used it to brush over the layer of pennies anyway and in hitting it with a MAPP-gas torch in places it seemed to cover adequately and make no bubbles 5 hours later we mixed another batch for the pour-over (same thing, 8-10 minutes slowly by hand). It was thick and gooey again, and it didn't do much by the way of self-leveling. However, we were able to spread it around with a thin laminated piece of cardstock and hit it with the torch in quick flashes. It wasn't as smooth as we had hoped when we were done, but it was evenly distributed so we anticipated it may need a sanding/topcoat upon drying to get a mirror-smooth finish in the end Now, here we are 60 hours later and the space heater has been running in the room the whole time. The table top is tacky in some spots. I grabbed all the thermometers I could find in the house and put them in the room. I discovered that the room itself is between 61 and 67 degrees and 41% humidity after 60 hours of space-heater supplement (so it was probably only in the upper 50's when we did the job). In retrospect and with the benefit of additional research, I speculate that everything must have been too cold. My main question is this: is the project ruined, or will it just take a longer time to cure? Thank you so much in advance for your help and advice. Chris from (chilly) Philly
  21. The boat will be moored in Lake Ontario from May to October and will be used frequently. The entire hull is factory painted. I want to put antifouling paint on the bottom. Can I just clean the bottom and apply antifouling paint or apply epoxy barrier coats before antifouling paint. Any suggestion please? Cheers!
  22. Here is the instructions for overcoating the Gluvit: To overcoat Gluvit after cure, wash the surface with warm soapy water or a dilute vinegar solution and a fine abrasive pad, or wet sand, then dry with clean towels or cloth. Frost-sand surface with 80-100 grit sandpaper to remove any gloss. Gluvit can be overcoated with any marine paint or other coating compatible with epoxies. Polyester resins, such as gelcoat, do not adhere well to epoxy material. I'd recommend priming first with Totalboat Total Protect barrier coat primer, when it is thumb tacky apply the first coat of bottom paint. I'd recommend our copper free Totalboat Krypton bottom paint, apply 2 coats.
  23. Thanks for the input. No primer required over Gluvit? recommendation for bottom paint?
  24. i would sand with 80 grit to remove the pitting and paint down to bright aluminum. Clean well with denatured alcohol. Then apply Totalboat Etch Wash, let sit for 5 minutes and rinse off with water, let dry. Chances are some of those pits will be fairly deep if not all the way through when sanded. If all the way through fill with Totalboat Aluminum Boat Sealer (Thixo). Then I'd coat the whole bottom Gluvit then apply a bottom paint.
  25. A good sanding with 80 grit so that it is all abraded even if it removes some of it is what you want, then 4 to 5 coats of barrier coat and 2 coats of bottom paint. After sanding vacuum or blow off the dust, clean well with denatured alcohol then start the barrier coats.
  26. I have my Starcraft upside down, and in the garage. I need to know best method / process to remove the current waterline and below, and make it shiny and new. I live in Tennessee, on Kentucky Lake, boat stays on trailer 80%, at dock, in slip 20%, not on a lift, in the water. Boat's previous owner lived in NY, boat had some salt water exposure. I have pictures, can take more, will post. please input as needed: Should I : 1. Strip off old paint, and corrosion?---suggest product, process or 2. Sand off old paint and corrosion--suggest grit sizes, I know the process, but tips welcome. I plan to go down to bare metal, don't know if necessary, but I will. Currently the boat does not leak, but paint and corrosion removal may create pinholes, so next step should be? 3. Use Gluvit on entire bottom to seal--if I have no holes, cracks, or deep pitting, will I still require Gluvit? Or is Gluvit a good idea, regardless? 4. Prime-- yes or no? If yes, suggested product? 5. Paint---- Please suggest paint, roll or brush, or does it matter? 6. Please detail any required steps that I left out due to my lack of experience. please pardon my detail, but this is all totally new to me, I have zero experience in this regard, but ability, and time, plus no local shop to do it for me! thanks Lane Douglas tried to load pictures, will continue to try.
  27. RIck, I ordered all the paint but now the weather hasn't cooperated so I have all winter to think about this project. How much do I need to sand the bottom? Am I completely removing the Awlgrip and scuffing up the fiberglass hull? Or am I just scuffing up the awlgrip? Soap/water to clean after sanding or acetone? Thanks for the help
  28. It looks like you are on track. Just be sure that the wood you are varnishing is up to temperature. If it is cold overnight, it will take a while for it to come up to temperature once the heat is turned on. You shouldn't have to thin the Epifanes much, just enough to get it to flow easily.
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