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  1. Last week
  2. It depends on your preferences and skill level. The lust tends to be a little thicker and dries very fast. I just think Gleam is easier to use than Lust but both will work.
  3. Thanks, Rick. I was hoping to avoid all this, but understand. Out of curiosity, why do you propose Gleam, versus your newer Lust product?
  4. You certainly would't want to paint at 90% humidity and 20% surface moisture is a lot. Green wood can approach 50% moisture content while kiln dried averages around 12% moisture. Air dried green lumber will go down to 20 to 25% over time. That is overall core dryness not surface moisture which would be much less. So the bottom line is you need to surface moisture to be low and humidity when applying to be less than 90%.
  5. Hi- Thanks for the quick reply. What about the 20% moisture versus humidity issue???
  6. I would try prime with Interlux Interprime first after sanding down to bare wood for the areas above the waterline. Apply 2-3 coats. This will seal the wood and filler and then the paint or varnish of choice can be applied as directed. PLYWOOD: It is important to saturate the porous white summer grain of the wood until it takes on a glossy appearance. At least 2 coats will be required to reach this condition. Once gloss is obtained, the wood should be sanded with 120 grade (grit) paper before applying finish coats of paint or varnish. Below the waterline, sand down to bare wood, thin the bottom paint with 10% thinner, apply a coat. When dry apply another coat of straight bottom paint.
  7. In order to remove the ghosts of the old name and get the entire transom to look the same you will need to remove all the old varnish down to bare wood. Sand evenly and then apply new coats of varnish. A good easy to use varnish is Totalboat Gleam or ZSpar Captains. You can use a foam roller to apply and tip with a good varnish brush like a badger hair brush. I doubt a light sanding and applying more varnish over the existing will eliminate where the old name was.
  8. Good afternoon, I have a 1963 Penn Yan wooden lapstrake that had its bottom replaced about 15 years ago. Paint adheres to all original strakes just fine. For the last 15 years, the "new" strakes don't hold onto the paint anywhere as well as the original. The new strakes are of similar material (plywood). I have tried belt sanding the new strakes to the bare wood and priming, then painting (white and copper bottom). Looks great but by the end of the season (3 months) it is peeling. I was going to try again with TotalBoat Primer and WetEdge. Sanding to bare wood first. Couple questions... primer states not to use above 90% humidity and less than 20% surface moisture (of wood).. Humidity I understand (Massachusetts). Surface moisture??? With one of those unreliable meters??? Should I doo something else to the bare wood before priming to assure adhesion??? Thanks
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  10. I just bought an old Chris Craft that was refinished and then garage stored some years ago. I removed the vinyl boat name and there are "ghosts" left behind where the varnish was protected from the elements. My plan is to lightly sand (220 grit?) this otherwise great finish and then recoat, but with what? I want an easy to apply varnish for this boat transom. Use a foam roller? Thanks for any tips.
  11. I am building the 9 frames now,gluing and using screws and carriage bolts at the keel. I was wondering if I should cover the whole frame with a coating before I install them on the building frame. Thanks for the help
  12. Hard to answer this question without any information on what you are doing. If you are going to be gluing to the frame, I would do the glue up first to bare wood, then seal after.
  13. I presume you are gluing wood gussets to wood frames, then I'd use an epoxy resin thickened with silica for better adhesion.
  14. I am refinishing some older canoe paddles.  I want to epoxy coat the paddle tips before re-varnishing.  Should I strip the old varnish/polyerethane from the paddles or just clean them thoroughly?  There is not much built-up layering of old varnish.

    1. RickW

      RickW

      If you are going to epoxy coat the tips, you would want to strip the old varnish down to wood, coat that with epoxy let it cure fully sand and then coat with varnish for UV protection.

  15. Should I cover the whole frame with a sealant prior to installing on the building frame.
  16. What is the best adhesives to use for gussets to frames, I am building 28 foot jolly roger and need the strength.
  17. Thanks for the reply! The main consensus seems to be "sand LIGHTLY".
  18. I suggest that after sanding the paint off, that you coat the raw fiberglass with a single coat of 5-1 TotalBoat epoxy. Use a foam roller. Thin it slightly to enhance penetration. This will soak into the glass and seal it as well as making a sound foundation for the TotalFair. Roll off any excess epoxy, since drips will only create more work for you. Sand lightly to abrade the surface before applying TotalFair. Then follow the rest of the steps as Rick outlines.
  19. That mixture is affectionately known as 'Skiff sauce'. I soak wooden belaying pins, parrel beads, wooden cleats (prior to installation) in it for days and then hang them to let them dry. Keep in mind that for some reason (pine tar component?) it does not look good on mahogany, color clash. I have experimented with different formulas and my own 'secret' recipe includes a smidgeon of Penetrol, and teak oil (StarBrite). I use it on wooden items that are better off oiled than varnished, so I don't consider it to be a substitute for varnishing.
  20. One assumes that you haul out every winter since you are in New Bedford. Thus, a multi-season paint designed for warmer waters might be overkill. I keep my boat in Narragansett By and haul out every fall. I use TotalBoat JD Select on my boat. I leave her in for a long season (May thru Sept.) and in August usually pay a young diver to do a bottom job and replace shaft zincs, usually there is only light growth, basically slime at that time. Waters in the bay here have warmed some so I might move to a stronger antifouling if need be, but since I haul and then roll on fresh ablative AF every spring, there seems to be little need in my opinion for such costly paint up in these waters with only seasonal immersion. I also prefer an ablative paint. Even with a single seasonal bottom job at around $60 for the job, I save plenty of money. The JD Select does a great job. If I plan to take her south some time, I will upgrade my paint choice accordingly.
  21. I'm not a diesel mechanic but have run and maintained them for years. I would replace all the fuel filters first. Be sure to fill the filters with fuel when installing. Remove the air filter and spray the air chamber with WD-40 a good 3 second spray, replace the airfilter and start the engine. It will run on WD and that will lube the cylinders a bit. Maybe someone else will chime in with something else to do also.
  22. Another excellent solution is to use our TotalBoat 2:1 2-part Penetrating Epoxy. It's low viscosity, you can roll in on and it soaks into the wood and seals it. You can thin it a little bit for better penetration (not too much!) and be sure to mix it well and then a little more. It soaks in deeply; after it cures, fair and paint the door with TotalBoat primer and then a good paint.
  23. Only clean brushes with the varnish manufacturer's recommended solvent, otherwise mineral spirits. Clean them well, change the thinner after the initial cleaning ('rinse'). Never clean with linseed, that's a finish. Boiled linseed will gel up/dry especially quickly and ruin anything left in it. Back in my Coast Guard days, we used to hand-clean oil-based paint brushes in diesel fuel! Some folks will rig a large coffee can with a jig to suspend the cleaned brushes upright (not touching the bottom) and put some mineral spirits in the bottom, and make sure that the can's 'freshness cover' (plastic) can be put back on. The solvent in the bottom and its vapor will help keep the brushes supple and not dried out. Never use acetone or lacquer thinner or xylene for a storage solution.
  24. I have a Yanmar diesel that has been sitting for 10 years. It is in the boat and I assume it was running when the boat was tied up to the pier. But I also suspect that it simply had the thru-hulls closed and no other storage steps taken. My question is what is the best way to begin resurrecting it? As of yet I have not tried to turn the crank.
  25. Two layers of carbon fiber should be fine since you need to conserve the thickness. The problem with encapsulated wood is that if there is damage in the carbon fiber and water gets in it will rot the wood inside it. I'd recommend treating the mahogany with our Totalboat Penetrating epoxy sealer first then the carbon fiber to protect it from water getting in down the road.
  26. It should be the same liquid calculation as water, the volume will be the same.
  27. I am extending the transom on my 14ft fibreglass boat in order to fit a longshaft 1999 25hp Johnson outboard.I will need to release the steering rod from it's fixed point in the well because it would have to travel at a 40% angle.Anybody got pics of a similar project? Probably need a support bracket off the extended transom.There is no connection present from the engine to the steering rod,any pics of these would be handy
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