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  1. You could set up a dehumidifier and a fan in the cabin to help dry out the core you couldn't get to. You will need to open it up as much as possible for it to dry out. It sounds like you may need to replace the core if it is that wet. If it is still intact and you are able to dry it out, it might be easier to replace the lower skin that was cut out if in good shape, otherwise you will need to do a new laminate. I know it's too late to do much, but it would have been an easier repair to cut the deck, replace the core, and then repair the deck from the top rather than working from below. You will still need to determine where the water is coming from and repair the leaks.
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  2. I have attached the 1-1/2" IVF1015MN onto plywood. I used 3M #74 Foam Fast contact cement on both surfaces, then used screws as well. Because of the dense vinyl layer and because the foam catches in the threads it is best to punch a hole with a 1/4" hollow punch, then drive the stainless 10 x 2" pan head sheet metal screw lightly into the wood. The foam doesn't get all twisted around the screw this way. I also made some 1x1 aluminum washers although fender washers would work too. Spaced the screws about 12-15". Although the glue really sticks well, over time, and in the heat of the engine room, I wanted to be sure, thus the screws.I do not believe the aluminum pins they sell would work well, because it would make the initial placement of the panel very tricky. Also we taped the edges with the 4" Mylar tape before installing. Not too difficult actually.
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  3. On my boat the insulation is hung on 1/2" plywood - the insulation is held on by screws with huge washers driven through the insulation into the plywood. I've also seen it done with spikes glued to the wall that the insulation gets pressed onto, then little caps that lock onto the end of the spikes where they push through the insulation to keep it attached - this is how it's done on metal.
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  4. Scotch Brite pads are a great alternative to sandpaper and metal abrasives. Woven nylon will not leave metal on substrate, that leads to rust and discoloration. Rinse and re-use.Heavy DutyMMM-05509: Heavy Duty Green #86 Scouring pad for heavy duty cleaning jobs. Use to replace scrapers, steel wool and metal sponges. Typical applications include heavily baked-on food and food processing equipment.Medium DutyMMM-08293: General Purpose Green Scouring Pad #96 The original synthetic scouring pad for everyday cleaning. Replaces steel wool and metal sponges. Non-rusting and resilient.MMM-07447: Maroon general purpose pads 7447 Most universally used pad. Used for scuffing before applying paint or primer. Great for cleaning and preparation work. Perfect for a variety of applications to clean, finish, grain, denib and defuzz. Use by hand, with a hand-pad block or on an in-line sander. Abrasive mineral: Very fine-grade aluminum oxide.Light DutyMMM-07445: Light Duty White Pads 7445 have fine mineral for very light cleaning. Use with liquid detergents for wax mold deflashing, highlighting and top coat rubbing of wood, cleaning of porcelain, stainless steel, chrome, painted surfaces and glass.MMM-07448: Ultra fine pads 7448 are used to finish sand after wet or dry abrasives in the 360 grit range as well as cleaning and scrubbing. Reusable. Excellent for final finishing and light cleaning. Abrasive mineral: Ultra fine grade silicon carbide.Abrasive Grit: 60 GritBRAND: 3MType: Pads
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