• Announcements

    • skiptabor

      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 

Bob Bradley

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Bob Bradley

  • Rank
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New Haven, CT and Westerly RI
  • Interests
    Offshore big game fishing
  1. I run a 1979 Hatteras 43C. The original main salon entry door, which has begun to delaminate badly, is fabricated from 1-1/4" teak veneer plywood. Since I cannot seem to locate that material, and have already gone the route of applying a teak veneer to it, I have no choice but to fabricate a new one out of solid teak. I plan on using a biscuit joiner liberally, and gluing and clamping 5 individual 6/4 (planed down to 5/4) teak planks together to make up the 30" wide door. Since the individual planks will be 6" across, it would be difficult, if not impossible to also use screws to fasten the planks mechanically to augment the adhesive. Alternatively, I could rip the boards down to 3" wide and bury 4" or 5" ss screws in them to do so. My question is this... would it be sufficient simply to biscuit join and glue and clamp the planks together, and if so, what would be the preferred adhesive?
  2. I will be replacing it. Some of the scratches are completely through the veneer to the substrate. I've used Smith's CPES in the past to seal some mahogany knees I had cut and I found that it darkened the wood quite a bit. Does the TotalBoat CPES do the same? Are there any compatibility issues I need to worry about between the CPES and the urethane? Finally, is the high gloss more slippery than a less glossy surface?
  3. I installed teak and holly veneer plywood on my salon deck about 8 years ago. At the time I finished it with Epiphanes rubbed effect varnish. It looked great for a few years, but over time, and after a couple dozen offshore fishing trips with 6 guys and their gear, it got pretty scratched up. Last season I sanded and top coated the deck, but it only made it worse, as the scratches got very dark and stood out even more. Since they were all the way through the veneer, more sanding was not an option. So, here I go again replacing the t&h. My question is, what should I be putting on it as a finish? One thought I had was to seal it with a couple coats of CPES and then top it with a good urethane, but I don't really want to experiment. What do you recommend?
  4. On my boat I always use a compressor and blow out the water heater using about 40psi. This also clears most of the water from the lines. I built and installed a manifold using 3-way valves to bypass the water heater, and after blowing it empty, I set the valves to the bypass position. By doing this, it only takes me about a gallon or so of antifreeze to do the entire system. My system, by the way is comprised of an ice maker, three sinks with both hot and cold water, a shower with both hot and cold, and two additional sinks in the wet bar and cockpit that are cold water only. I also run the water tank empty prior to winterizing the system. Bob
  5. Seems to me that the effort to remove and reinstall the impeller is worse than incurring the cost for a new one. My approach has always been to just leave it there all winter and put in a new one at commissioning time.
  6. Greetings! I recently signed up for the forums and would like to introduce myself, and hopefully get some assistance with a project I am undertaking. I am an avid boater and fisherman - primarily offshore for tuna and other big game species. I berth in New Haven, Ct at the City Point Yacht Club in the winter and the Westerly Yacht Club in the nicer seasons. I've been a boat owner since 1974 on several boats of increasing size from my original 16' runabout to my current sportfisherman. I have been around boats all my life and hold a 50 ton masters ticket. This week, I had my 1979 Hatteras 43C walnut blasted by Billings Media blasting of Glastonbury, CT (great job by the way). As expected, this exposed and abundance of blisters. I have marked them all and will be opening them up over the weekend so that they can dry out over the winter. In contemplating repair techniques, it occurred to me that from a labor perspective, a caulk gun with six10 epoxy would probably be a pretty easy application - just fill the void with the premixed epoxy and swipe it smooth with a plastic applicator, let it set up, sand and repeat until I am satisfied with the result. I would appreciate comments from one more experienced than I in this approach, and perhaps a recommendation of a better approach. Secondly, I plan on barrier coating the hull in the spring and would also like to get some advice on product selection and application techniques. I understand that timing between coats and between the final coat and the first coat of paint is critical, but a 43' boat with a 14' 6" beam is a big area to cover. Simply rolling on a coat of paint takes me more than half a day, so I plan on calling in some markers from my regular offshore fishing crew when the time comes to do the job. I'm thinking that I would do the batch mixing and have two pairs of guys do the rolling and tipping. I'm hoping that in the time it takes them to get from stem to stern, the stem will be set up and ready for the subsequent coat. What are your thoughts regarding best products, and best practices for the job. Also compatibility with the first coat of paint - any concerns here? Thanks. Bob