nrgarvin

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  1. Thanks, I purchased several sizes of PM nuts from JD. They are 18-8 stainless. Are there any corrosion issues with using 18-8 screws in lapstrake sides compared to silicone-bronze or 316 SS?
  2. The dremmel is your best bet. Get a few carbide pear shaped cutters and wear safety glasses as the carbide burr will spew razor sharp stainless shards. While grinding down the screw, keep the cutter cool by dipping it in a cup of cold water every 30 seconds or so and it will last a lot longer. Are these screws not accessible from the underside? What will hold the deck down if you grind off all the screws?
  3. Does the TotalBoat penetrating epoxy leave any amine blush when curing?
  4. I found #3 Frearson bits at West Marine.
  5. Is there such a thing as a #3 Frearson driver bit? I have the #2 bit but it seems a larger one would work better in the #12 Frearson screw heads. I don't see any on-line.
  6. I have a 1964 Christ Craft Cavalier 22 dory. It was painted 13-15 years ago but has been in heated indoor storage for the last 9 years. How can I determine if the existing topcoat is a two-part epoxy? It has held up very, very well except for where there are now cracks in the surface and at the lapstrake horizontal overlaps due to the wood drying out. It is still very glossy and hard. When I got the boat 10 years ago there were some Interlux paint cans with it (red/white and yellow/white cans) but I threw them out about 5 years ago and don't remember what type of paint they were. If this is a two-part epoxy, I will repaint it with the same, otherwise I'll use a one-part.
  7. I posted this in the Wood section but it probably belongs here. What is the best material for filling the screw holes in lapstrake sides? It appears someone had previously removed the original Chris Craft filler and used white marine-tex or similar polyester filler. Over the last 8 years while the boat was in dry indoor storage, all of the filler telegraphed and now stand proud of the surface about .005". Is there a good filler that will hold up and not telegraph or should I use mahogany bungs? This is a 1964 Chris Craft Cavalier Dory that I am restoring inside and out (all paint removed to the wood) that will not spend much time in the water as it will be trailered and stored indoors in a heated garage. thanks
  8. What is the best material for filling holes over fasteners in lapstrake sides. This is a 1964 Chris Craft Cavalier Dory which I am restoring. I refastened all the plywood to the frames using #10 x 2" silicone-bronze screws to replace the original #8 x 1-1/2 which were all loose and would not hold (many of them the heads crumbled and had to be removed with an easy-out). Most of the screw holes had been filled with what looks to be white marine-tex polyester filler at a prior repaint. I doubt it is original. All of this white, hard filler had telegraphed and were actually proud of the surface aprox .005". The boat has been in a dry indoor storage for 8 years. Other filler I found under the paint was a tan color and just crumbled under pressure. I suspect it was the original CC filler material. I would like to fill with a material that won't telegraph over time and also last a few decades or more. I could also use mahogany bungs but the bung thickness would only be 1/8 to 3/16" for most as the screws are not deeply countersunk into the 1/2" "armor plated (looks like dense paper) plywood. I have been told Famowood is a good filler. Also that an epoxy filler can be mixed up with the right materials. Or bungs which would be epoxied in place. The boat will spend very little time in the water (trailered) and stored indoors in a heated garage - if this makes a difference. thanks.
  9. I am refinishing a 1964 22' CC Cavalier Dory inside and out. I am looking for a small, rectangular or square sander that can aggressively remove the remains of very hard paint and epoxy. I have used a heat gun to remove all of the top layers but the original CC primer on the inside is hard as granite and none of my sanders are very efficient at removing it - even with 40 grit paper. I find that a hand held wood block with 40 grit glued to it will cut through it rather quickly at the expense of my arms and a lot of sweat. It is a lead containing paint so I am suited up, full respirator, boat in a sealed & ventilated/filtered plastic tent, HEPA vacs, etc. I purchased a Festool RTS-400 random orbit sander which is a nice tool but even with 40 grit the oscillations are not big enough to allow the paper to cut efficiently. I can't easily use a disc sander due to the many inside corners and small areas to sand and a disc sander will case too much damage. Short of a mini belt sander, is there a small, powerful, rectangular sander out there with a large oscillating pattern that will drive 40 grit to remove very hard paint?
  10. I need to purchase some countersink tools to use with the silicone bronze wood screws Jamestown supplies. Can someone tell me the head angle so I get the correct countersink? Thanks.
  11. Where can I get the #8-32 Chris Craft "PM" (Press Metal) nuts they used to secure the lapstrake siding on the 60's vintage boats? These are approximately 3/8" square (.490" measured) silicone-bronze material, .050" thick with a shallow curve and the corners slightly bent down to bite into the wood to prevent rotation. It is possible they were just stamped with a punched hole and a self tapping screw was used. The inside of the screws are cut off to be flush with the nut after it was tightened so I can't tell if it was a thread cutting screw or not.
  12. First question: Can the Interlux Epoxy PrimeKote be used over System 3 Clear Coat? I am restoring a 1964 22' CC Cavalier Dory with lapstrake sides. The inside of the plywood lapstrakes have been stripped with a heat gun and scraper and sanded but there is a lot of deep checks in the surfaces and a lot of "splinters" on the top corners. The area at the bow under the front deck that has been hidden and untouched for 50 years is also a bit "soft" on the surface and could use a penetrating epoxy to toughen it up. I like the idea of using the thinner, penetrating Clear Coat to get as deep into the wood as possible. I also like that the Clear Coat is "non blushing" and the recoat window allows me to put one or more coats a day without sanding in between to get a good build. Second question: Should I not bother using both products? Will one or the other suffice? If I used 3 or 4 coats of the Clear Coat then after full cure and sanding go with the top coat (skip the PrimeKote), will this work? Is the S3 Clear Coat a good primer for most top coats. Not sure which top coat I'll use - recommendations welcome. Was thinking the Interlux Perfection with a gloss reducer on the inside. Or, alternatively, I could just use 3 or 4 coats of the PrimeKote, sand after full cure and then top coat. Would the PrimeKote give me the deep penetration into the very dry and checked plywood I am hoping for? With either one, I am planning on multiple coats within the allowed recoat window without sanding between coats to get a high build. If both products will give me equivalent results, I would prefer to use the easier, less toxic/odorous S3 Clear Coat. Thanks