RickW

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RickW last won the day on April 21 2016

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    http:///www.jamestowndistributors.com/

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    Jamestown Distributors Bristol, RI

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  1. I'd recommend 5:1 epoxy resin thickened with a little wood flour for the adhesive. Use a good marine spar varnish to finish it for UV protection.
  2. To varnish over teak oil, you would need to remove the oil finish. Take a look at our Totalboat Halcyon Varnish. It's a water based varnish in a bag, very easy to apply and dries quickly. Here is the link: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=336256&familyName=TotalBoat+Halcyon+Rugged+Marine+Varnish
  3. We don't have a two part paint like Awlgrip in the Totalboat product lineup, only a single part polyurethane like Wet Edge. A lower cost alternative would be Epifanes Two Part Polyurethane and we can mix that in Awlgrip colors.
  4. You will need to remove all the bottom paint down to gel coat. Slight discoloration is ok but paint removed.
  5. Yes, you will need to remove all the bottom paint. Make the needed repairs. I would fair the repairs with Total Fair after the epoxy repair. Then if you want to use a regular topside paint on the bottom (so long as it doesn't stay in the water more than a day or two) you will want to apply 2 coats of Total Protect Epoxy Barrier Coat Primer, sand smooth, clean and apply 2 to 3 coats of a topside paint.
  6. Keeping growth off metal running gear like trim tabs is a real challenge. I've found that if you sand down to clean metal and put a couple coats of barrier coat primer like Totalboat Total Protect, then a couple coats of antifouling paint, that combination works the best.
  7. Varnishes are not very abrasive resistant, but the hardest are the two part polyurethanes like Totalboat Envy and Interlux Perfection plus, they are very clear though and cannot be applies on top of a single part varnish. In the Single Part group, our Totalboat Halcyon waterbase varnish, once fully cured is very hard and can be applied over single part finishes.
  8. Thanks for the pictures. You will need to grind down the edges of the hole to bevel it out so you can lay up fiberglass cloth. Cut some 6 oz cloth slightly larger than the hole, and a few more with each one larger than the previous to fill the hole to the thickness of the hull. Use West System GFlex epoxy to wet out the fiberglass. First use a torch and heat the hull where you will be applying the epoxy, careful not to melt it, just a few quick passes over the area. Wet out the fiberglass and apply the smallest piece first, then the next larger until you fill to the hull thickness. I would do this from the inside to minimize the amount of fairing required on the outside prior to paint.
  9. The 2:1 is a slightly lower viscosity and supposed to be blush-free. The 5:1 does and will perform well in vacuum bagging applications, it is slightly stronger than 2:1 but not by much. In vacuum bagging, if you use peel ply it will remove any possible blush when it is removed and in the bagging process the atmosphere is really limited which will reduce any blush. So the bottom line is you can use 2:1 or 5:1 resin, both will work. If you are doing a large layup, the 2:1 will flow a little better.
  10. The important part is to use a 5 to 1 ratio of Resin to Hardener. It doesn't matter which hardener you use. You can even mix the fast and the slow hardener together to get a medium cure rate so long as the resin and hardener ratio is 5 parts resin to 1 part hardener.
  11. Hard to say what happened without more details on how you did the repair. How did you prepare the fiberglass around the edges of the hole? What products did you use to do the patch? Is the canoe actually fiberglass and gel coat or is it Royalex (polyethylene)?
  12. With multiple layers of bottom paint we recommend applying 3/8" thick layer of Total Strip be applied and covered with plastic sheeting to keep it from drying out. Let it sit overnight and then remove the plastic. Some paint will come off with it and the rest can be scraped off. This product works best when the temperature is in the 80's but can be used between 60 and 80+ degrees.
  13. You can generally tell if it is gel coat by sanding or grinding and if it smells like styrene it's usually gel coat. If no smell and very thin it's usually paint. In any case to fix the crack you will want to v it out with a dremel and use a filler to fill it in like 3M Marine Premium Filler if the crack is cosmetic. If it's structural into the fiberglass or Kevlar cloth, you will need to build that up by grinding the area about 3" around the crack and laying up more Kevlar cloth and resin. Fair smooth and finish with gelcoat. If using gelcoat do your lay up with polyester resin. If finishing with paint, you can use epoxy resin.
  14. If there are a lot of layers of paint, it would require a lot of sanding. A paint remover will be quicker and easier on the non-skid areas.
  15. You could sand or use a paint stripper. We have a product, Totalboat Total Strip that works well removing multiple layers of paint. Apply about a 1/4" thick and cover with plastic wrap to prevent drying out. Leave on for 4 to 8 hours, peel off the plastic and scrape the remaining stripper and old paint off.