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RickW last won the day on April 21 2016

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    Jamestown Distributors Bristol, RI

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  1. electric

    I'm not a marine electrician but can tell you how to test for positive or negative. If you have a main battery switch turn it on. Use a multimeter set to DC current. Place the black lead to a know ground and the other to one of the wires you're testing. If there is no reading it could be a negative, if it reads 12 volts it's a positive wire. Check the bus bar to see if it is wired as a common ground. If so the grounds would go from the bus bar directly to each device. The positive will go from the feed to a switch and then to the device so that when the switch is off the device has no power.
  2. You will get a better bond using epoxy to the sub layer than with laminating polyester resin. Top lamination with that polyester should be fine finished with an air dry gel coat so the polyester lamination cures up.
  3. Please look at my post regarding paint, and corrosion that I posted a few days ago.

    probably should have started a new thread, but I didn't, just added on to an existing 



  4. Yes the same process whether it's the regular or cold formula. The cold weather penetrating epoxy only use between 40 and 65 degrees. Any warmer than that use the regular formula.
  5. Penetrating will work well to seal the teak prior to varnish. After cleaning and sanding, wipe with acetone to remove any oils and contamination. Thin the first coat 25% with acetone so it penetrates further. (note: this will darken the teak in appearance) Apply a second coat unthinned after the first coat has dried and been washed with water, sand with 220 grit. Allow the second coat to dry 3 to 5 days depending on temperature, wash and sand with 220 grit and apply the first coat of varnish thinned only enough to flow well.
  6. I would suggest 6 to 8 coats of spar varnish like Totalboat Gleam. It is easy to brush or spray. It is an amber color traditional spar varnish and should last a long time indoors.
  7. Sounds like a carburetor problem but I'm not an engine mechanic, maybe someone else can chime with some help.
  8. I can't say whether aluminum or graphite power would be best. The graphite is black and would require a lot of white pigment to get to a light gray. If the color is important, go with the aluminum.
  9. For the inside 2 quarts of Wet Edge Boston Whaler Blue should be enough for two coats. You will want to thin that with 5 to 10% of TotalBoat Thinner 100 and use a 4" foam roller on the flat areas, and brush the corner areas. Apply this paint in a THIN coat and will will lay down well without tipping, don't load the roller real heavy with paint and work the roller lightly over the surface so as not to introduce bubbles in the paint and stretch the paint out to a thin even coating. Let dry, sand lightly with 220 grit and apply another coat.
  10. Polypropylene is very difficult to get paint to stick to it. The surface must be very clean. Clean the surface well with soap and water, let dry. Scuff the surface with 80 grit sand paper, clean well with denatured alcohol. Gently heat plastic with propane torch until surface looks oily. Clean again with denatured alcohol. Paint with a two part polyurethane primer like Totalboat Total Protect or Interlux 2000E two coats, when dry, sand with 80 grit and apply 2 coats of bottom paint.
  11. If you want to fill the voids with a brown colored epoxy then you would add the wood flour to the mixed epoxy to thicken it, mix well then apply to the seam or void. If you want it clear, just pour the epoxy in the seam and let settle and cure. You would want to use the clear hardener if you want the unthickened epoxy to be clear. Look at our Thixo Wood which is a thickened epoxy in a caulking cartridge which is premixed: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97748&familyName=TotalBoat+Thixo+Wood+2%3A1+Epoxy+System
  12. No, a quart won't be enough for 4 to 5 coats, better off with a gallon.
  13. To overcoat Gluvit after cure, wash the surface with warm soapy water or a dilute vinegar solution and a fine abrasive pad, or wet sand, then dry with clean towels or cloth. Frost-sand surface with 80-100 grit sandpaper to remove any gloss. Gluvit can be overcoated with any marine paint or other coating compatible with epoxies. Polyester resins, such as gelcoat, do not adhere well to epoxy material. We always using a primer first on top of an epoxy coating prior to painting. If there is pitting on the surface it would be best to apply Gluvit over that, may just be easier to paint the whole bottom.
  14. If the boat is going to stay in the water more than a day or two then you will need to apply an antifouling bottom paint. Awlgrip on the bottom of the boat will blister and fail if left in the water more than a few days. You will need to protect that finish if you are going to apply a bottom paint. Sand the bottom with 80 grit to scuff it up and apply 3 to 5 coats of a barrier coat primer like Totalboat Total Protect or Interlux 2000E. Follow the instructions for the barrier coat and then apply 2 coats of bottom paint.
  15. Sand down to bright aluminum and coat the bottom with Gluvit epoxy coating, then when dry you can apply a copper free bottom paint like Totalboat Krypton.