RickW

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RickW last won the day on April 21 2016

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About RickW

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    http:///www.jamestowndistributors.com/

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    Jamestown Distributors Bristol, RI

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  1. Yes, the prisma preforms would be good for replacing beams and stringers.
  2. Amine Blush is a waxy substance that can form on the surface of epoxy resin when it cures. It needs to be removed with water prior to applying more epoxy or a finish on top. The 2 to 1 epoxy doesn't blush when curing eliminating that step.
  3. The 2 to 1 Epoxy is a non-blush epoxy, low viscosity, and comes in slow, medium and fast hardeners. The 5 to 1 is not non-blushing and two hardeners, slow and fast. The 2 to 1 also dries clear.
  4. Take a look at the Epifanes Mono-urethane single part paint. There isn't a Royal Blue but close would be a Bright Blue or Medium Blue. Painting on epoxy you will need to use a primer first. Look at Totalboat Topside Primer. We have a flat white in the Totalboat Wet Edge.
  5. I'd recommend waiting at least a week before applying the new decal.
  6. Marine plywood sealed with Totalboat Penetrating Epoxy is a good choice. I would coat the entire plywood surfaces with the 1st coat thinned 25% with acetone, and a second coat straight, unthinned.
  7. After replacing the spongy area, there are many options for the decking. Here is a link for a cork product that is really nice, no maintenance option: http://hewesco.com/cnc-marine/marinedeck.html Here is another option: http://www.permateek.com/landing/northeastern-marine-improvements/?utm_source=BMON AdWords campaign&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BMON AdWords (Search) Also you could fiberglass the deck and paint a non-skid coating if you want to go that route using something like Totalboat Total Tread.
  8. There are a couple of choices. You could use a product like Titebond II wood glue or something stronger like an epoxy. You could mix some silica and epoxy resin together for gluing, or buy it already in a tube in our Thixo Product.
  9. It is recommended to prime. Going on top of Brightside in good condition you could probably skip the primer, clean, sand with 220 grit, clean with denatured alcohol and apply in thin coats.
  10. I recommend using shackles from the pendant thimbles to the sling link. If you ever need to replace a line it's a lot easier. There is no easy way to get the thimble on the link without opening up the thimble.
  11. I don't think adding 333 thinner to the Enamel that has Penetrol in it will be a problem if it needs thinning.
  12. I'd first recommend removing any old finish on the door and sealing it with our Totalboat Penetrating Epoxy. Let that cure 3 - 4 days and then start the varnish coats. The Epifanes Clear Gloss or Wood Finish Gloss are excellent products and will work well, probably better than Sikkens. We also have some Totalboat Varnishes that are quick drying allowing 2 to 3 coats a day. Look at Totalboat Gleam, which is an easy to use varnish, and Lust which is a fast dry varnish. Thinning with our Thinner 100 allows them to flow better for a smoother coat.
  13. Interlux recommends using their Brushing Liquid # 333 for thinning their Yacht Enamel.
  14. Seal the tube the best you can with tape or a wire nut and tape. Some people put it in a freezer until needed. Over time though it will harden in the tube once opened.
  15. It depends on your preferences and skill level. The lust tends to be a little thicker and dries very fast. I just think Gleam is easier to use than Lust but both will work.