RickW

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RickW last won the day on April 21 2016

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About RickW

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    http:///www.jamestowndistributors.com/

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    Jamestown Distributors Bristol, RI

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  1. It depends on your preferences and skill level. The lust tends to be a little thicker and dries very fast. I just think Gleam is easier to use than Lust but both will work.
  2. You certainly would't want to paint at 90% humidity and 20% surface moisture is a lot. Green wood can approach 50% moisture content while kiln dried averages around 12% moisture. Air dried green lumber will go down to 20 to 25% over time. That is overall core dryness not surface moisture which would be much less. So the bottom line is you need to surface moisture to be low and humidity when applying to be less than 90%.
  3. I would try prime with Interlux Interprime first after sanding down to bare wood for the areas above the waterline. Apply 2-3 coats. This will seal the wood and filler and then the paint or varnish of choice can be applied as directed. PLYWOOD: It is important to saturate the porous white summer grain of the wood until it takes on a glossy appearance. At least 2 coats will be required to reach this condition. Once gloss is obtained, the wood should be sanded with 120 grade (grit) paper before applying finish coats of paint or varnish. Below the waterline, sand down to bare wood, thin the bottom paint with 10% thinner, apply a coat. When dry apply another coat of straight bottom paint.
  4. In order to remove the ghosts of the old name and get the entire transom to look the same you will need to remove all the old varnish down to bare wood. Sand evenly and then apply new coats of varnish. A good easy to use varnish is Totalboat Gleam or ZSpar Captains. You can use a foam roller to apply and tip with a good varnish brush like a badger hair brush. I doubt a light sanding and applying more varnish over the existing will eliminate where the old name was.
  5. Hard to answer this question without any information on what you are doing. If you are going to be gluing to the frame, I would do the glue up first to bare wood, then seal after.
  6. I presume you are gluing wood gussets to wood frames, then I'd use an epoxy resin thickened with silica for better adhesion.
  7. I am refinishing some older canoe paddles.  I want to epoxy coat the paddle tips before re-varnishing.  Should I strip the old varnish/polyerethane from the paddles or just clean them thoroughly?  There is not much built-up layering of old varnish.

    1. RickW

      RickW

      If you are going to epoxy coat the tips, you would want to strip the old varnish down to wood, coat that with epoxy let it cure fully sand and then coat with varnish for UV protection.

  8. I'm not a diesel mechanic but have run and maintained them for years. I would replace all the fuel filters first. Be sure to fill the filters with fuel when installing. Remove the air filter and spray the air chamber with WD-40 a good 3 second spray, replace the airfilter and start the engine. It will run on WD and that will lube the cylinders a bit. Maybe someone else will chime in with something else to do also.
  9. Two layers of carbon fiber should be fine since you need to conserve the thickness. The problem with encapsulated wood is that if there is damage in the carbon fiber and water gets in it will rot the wood inside it. I'd recommend treating the mahogany with our Totalboat Penetrating epoxy sealer first then the carbon fiber to protect it from water getting in down the road.
  10. It should be the same liquid calculation as water, the volume will be the same.
  11. The Entropy's Super Sap CCR is the correct resin, mixing a gallon at a time I'd recommend the slow hardener so it doesn't start to kick off in the mixing container before you do your pour.
  12. If it already has paint on it, Just use a single part polyurethane paint like Wet Edge. If it is bare aluminum, sand to a brite finish, use Totalboat Aluminum Etch wash to clean, then a couple coats of Total Protect Primer, then the wet edge topside paint. If any of that area painted is going to be under the waterline, you will need to use a bottom paint if it is going to stay in the water more than a day or two.
  13. That looks like a jet drive. Best to call SeaStar/Teleflex to see if they have a system for that: 877-663-8396.
  14. It could be the fuel pump, but check some of the other causes for a lack of fuel such as the fuel filter. If you have a primary water separator filter, and haven't replaced it recently, check that to be sure it isn't really clogged. If that is fine then it time for a mechanic.
  15. I believe West Systems changed their pumps in the last couple of years. They are all yellow now. Each set contains three pumps: one resin pump, a 5:1 ratio hardener pump that fits on 205 Fast and 206 Slow Hardener cans, and a 3:1 ratio hardener pump that fits on WEST SYSTEM 207 Special Clear and 209 Extra Slow Hardener cans. The resin pumps will only fit the caps of the resins and the hardener pumps will only fit the caps of the different hardeners.