RickW

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RickW last won the day on April 21 2016

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    http:///www.jamestowndistributors.com/

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  1. A good cleaning and sanding with 80 grit then clean with acetone should prep it well for paint. I'd recommend Totalboat Total Protect two part barrier coat primer. This will seal it from water seeping through the gel coat. Apply about 3 to 4 coats. Any holes can be filled with Totalboat Thixo two part epoxy.
  2. Two coats of Select should cover the existing black paint. Be sure to sand well and clean before applying.
  3. If needed, you could peel back some of the cloth and shave the bottom of the preformed hull beam/stringer. It's best to fiberglass over the hole beam for added strength. Not sure what you are referring to in the 1/2" height difference in the stringer groove, you will need to seat the bottom of the beam to the bottom of the hull when installing.
  4. If you have Pettit Protect High Build Epoxy Priming System, that is good about the same as Totalboat Total Protect Epoxy Primer. Both will be good. If you are painting a white topcoat, I like to use a white primer, that way if you get a scratch in the top coat it's not that noticeable.
  5. The 2 part primer is a better choice if there is some spider cracks in the gel coat. We don't have a color close to desert tan in Wet Edge, if you want to use that, I'd stick with just white.
  6. Using laminating resin in the 70's it should be fully cured in the vacuum bag after 8 to 12 hours. We usually leave it on overnight and the next morning it's cured.
  7. You can use the Wet Edge paint in white on the hull a quart should be enough for two thin coats. Yes, use the same 2 part epoxy primer first.
  8. Typically on wooden boat bottoms you would use a solvent based bottom paint and thin the first coat 10%. Then follow with two coats unthinned.
  9. In a half gallon of paint i'd try two ounces of water, it shouldn't take much more than that. Use a paddle mixer on a drill and it should smooth out.
  10. You can thin with water. Mix well to smooth out the clumps.
  11. You would mask off where the waterline is going to be and apply multiple coats of varnish, I'd recommend the Gleam Gloss, much easier to use than Lust. Once the varnish is fully cured (wait at least 5 days), mask that off for the waterline paint. Prime with Totalboat Total Protect Epoxy Primer, then apply two to three thin coats of Wet Edge topside paint for the waterline. Here is a link to our video of applying primer and wet edge on a stripe on our kayak build:
  12. Prime first with Interlux Epoxy Primekote to the hull including the bottom. Apply Perfection to the area above the waterline. Apply VC Performance to the area below the waterline. You said the boat is not going to stay in the water more than 24 hours at a time so you shouldn't need Interlux 2000E barrier coat.
  13. When your last coat of Total Protect Barrier coat is thumb tacky apply a coat of Underdog bottom paint. If the TotalProtect has fully cured, then sand with 80 grit and apply the bottom paint. If you can wait until just before the boat goes in the water for a second coat that would be the best for antifouling protection. If not you may experience some growth.
  14. Topside paints especially 2 part polyurethanes are very good and will last 10 plus years. If not kept clean and waxed they will fade and oxidize. Gel coat is harder and will last longer especially if waxed. I know you probably won't be going on the roof to clean and apply wax. Your choice, both will work for a relatively long time.
  15. Underdog is a single season bottom paint and needs to get in the water within the launch window to be effective. Abrading with a scotch brite just before launching would help but that is usually done on multi-season paints, not single. Since it is going to stay in the water all summer, I would wait to paint just before launch.