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Everything posted by RickW

  1. It depends on your preferences and skill level. The lust tends to be a little thicker and dries very fast. I just think Gleam is easier to use than Lust but both will work.
  2. You certainly would't want to paint at 90% humidity and 20% surface moisture is a lot. Green wood can approach 50% moisture content while kiln dried averages around 12% moisture. Air dried green lumber will go down to 20 to 25% over time. That is overall core dryness not surface moisture which would be much less. So the bottom line is you need to surface moisture to be low and humidity when applying to be less than 90%.
  3. I would try prime with Interlux Interprime first after sanding down to bare wood for the areas above the waterline. Apply 2-3 coats. This will seal the wood and filler and then the paint or varnish of choice can be applied as directed. PLYWOOD: It is important to saturate the porous white summer grain of the wood until it takes on a glossy appearance. At least 2 coats will be required to reach this condition. Once gloss is obtained, the wood should be sanded with 120 grade (grit) paper before applying finish coats of paint or varnish. Below the waterline, sand down to bare wood, thin the bottom paint with 10% thinner, apply a coat. When dry apply another coat of straight bottom paint.
  4. In order to remove the ghosts of the old name and get the entire transom to look the same you will need to remove all the old varnish down to bare wood. Sand evenly and then apply new coats of varnish. A good easy to use varnish is Totalboat Gleam or ZSpar Captains. You can use a foam roller to apply and tip with a good varnish brush like a badger hair brush. I doubt a light sanding and applying more varnish over the existing will eliminate where the old name was.
  5. Hard to answer this question without any information on what you are doing. If you are going to be gluing to the frame, I would do the glue up first to bare wood, then seal after.
  6. I presume you are gluing wood gussets to wood frames, then I'd use an epoxy resin thickened with silica for better adhesion.
  7. I'm not a diesel mechanic but have run and maintained them for years. I would replace all the fuel filters first. Be sure to fill the filters with fuel when installing. Remove the air filter and spray the air chamber with WD-40 a good 3 second spray, replace the airfilter and start the engine. It will run on WD and that will lube the cylinders a bit. Maybe someone else will chime in with something else to do also.
  8. Two layers of carbon fiber should be fine since you need to conserve the thickness. The problem with encapsulated wood is that if there is damage in the carbon fiber and water gets in it will rot the wood inside it. I'd recommend treating the mahogany with our Totalboat Penetrating epoxy sealer first then the carbon fiber to protect it from water getting in down the road.
  9. It should be the same liquid calculation as water, the volume will be the same.
  10. The Entropy's Super Sap CCR is the correct resin, mixing a gallon at a time I'd recommend the slow hardener so it doesn't start to kick off in the mixing container before you do your pour.
  11. If it already has paint on it, Just use a single part polyurethane paint like Wet Edge. If it is bare aluminum, sand to a brite finish, use Totalboat Aluminum Etch wash to clean, then a couple coats of Total Protect Primer, then the wet edge topside paint. If any of that area painted is going to be under the waterline, you will need to use a bottom paint if it is going to stay in the water more than a day or two.
  12. That looks like a jet drive. Best to call SeaStar/Teleflex to see if they have a system for that: 877-663-8396.
  13. It could be the fuel pump, but check some of the other causes for a lack of fuel such as the fuel filter. If you have a primary water separator filter, and haven't replaced it recently, check that to be sure it isn't really clogged. If that is fine then it time for a mechanic.
  14. I believe West Systems changed their pumps in the last couple of years. They are all yellow now. Each set contains three pumps: one resin pump, a 5:1 ratio hardener pump that fits on 205 Fast and 206 Slow Hardener cans, and a 3:1 ratio hardener pump that fits on WEST SYSTEM 207 Special Clear and 209 Extra Slow Hardener cans. The resin pumps will only fit the caps of the resins and the hardener pumps will only fit the caps of the different hardeners.
  15. Ron, Not sure why you are getting that line of dull finish, it could be that it was starting to dry when you went over it with the roller. You said you were using a 1/4" nap mohair roller. Can't tell from the picture but I recommend using a foam roller, light pressure and thin 5 to 10% and it should lay down smooth. You can sand that spot down and recoat. Once you roll an area, walk away, don't go back and try to fix anything. It usually starts to dry quickly and will cause more finish problems. Hope this helps,
  16. Yes, we sell a product called Bloxygen which will displace the air with an inert gas and eliminate the skin problem in the can. Here is the link. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63940
  17. If it's a rove or a burr, then they can be hit again with a rove set to tighten it up.
  18. Both the 2 Part Epoxy Primer and the Epoxy barrier coat can be used. If you were looking to keep the boat in the water we'd recommend the barrier coat on the bottom. We do find that the Barrier coat primer sands a little easier than the 2 part Epoxy Primer.
  19. It takes about a week for these topside paints to fully cure. You can sand the old paint so that it is smooth and then repaint. If the area where it was taped off pulled the paint, try to pull the tape right after applying it before the paint cures and it should come off with a crisp edge.
  20. We do have that in 6 foot lengths with regular UPS ground shipping.
  21. It all depends on what type of finish you are looking for. In the videos they are more concerned with coverage than getting a smooth sprayed look finish. You can get a smooth finish by tipping if you're really good at it but it takes some trial and error to get it down. The other concern is that if it's applied too heavy, it will sag/run and it could top cure leaving the paint soft underneath and take a long time to fully cure. In my experience working with these various single part polyurethane paints, it's best to roll out thin coats and not tip providing it lays down smooth without bubbles or sags.
  22. 3M Scotch-Grip Neoprene HP Rubber & Gasket Adhesive 1300 HERE'S THE LINK: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=54594&familyName=3M+Scotch-Grip+Neoprene+HP+Rubber+%26+Gasket+Adhesive+1300
  23. On the Keel Joint, you could use TB Flex Epoxy which would be more flexible in that joint. Coating the iron with resin and cloth I'd recommend TB High Performance Epoxy Kit and two layers of 6 oz cloth. Be sure to sand the iron, wipe clean with acetone, then lay up the cloth.
  24. The smaller dimension is the diameter.
  25. It is important to use a foam roller and roll the thinned paint on in a very thin layer. Don't worry about the coverage on the first coat. Use light pressure on the roller so it doesn't generate bubbles in the paint and you shouldn't need to tip. If you do tip to lay down any bubbles or stipple in the paint, use a good quality china bristle or badger hair brush dipped in thinner and patted dry. It doesn't matter which way you roll so long as you are going from dry to wet which usually means ending with a horizontal roll. If you are tipping you would want to tip from wet to dry usually horizontally on a vertical service. If you are moving paint with the brush, it is on too thick and will usually leave brush marks or runs when drying.