RickW

Administrators
  • Content count

    867
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    19

Everything posted by RickW

  1. When your last coat of Total Protect Barrier coat is thumb tacky apply a coat of Underdog bottom paint. If the TotalProtect has fully cured, then sand with 80 grit and apply the bottom paint. If you can wait until just before the boat goes in the water for a second coat that would be the best for antifouling protection. If not you may experience some growth.
  2. Topside paints especially 2 part polyurethanes are very good and will last 10 plus years. If not kept clean and waxed they will fade and oxidize. Gel coat is harder and will last longer especially if waxed. I know you probably won't be going on the roof to clean and apply wax. Your choice, both will work for a relatively long time.
  3. Underdog is a single season bottom paint and needs to get in the water within the launch window to be effective. Abrading with a scotch brite just before launching would help but that is usually done on multi-season paints, not single. Since it is going to stay in the water all summer, I would wait to paint just before launch.
  4. As far as I know, nothing lasts forever except death and taxes. That said, the longest lasting solution would be to re-gel-coat the top. Clean well with soap and water, sand with 80 to 120 grit and roll on another coat of gel-coat.
  5. I'd recommend coating the wood spacer with Totalboat Clear Penetrating Epoxy. Thin the first coat 25% with acetone, the second straight. Use a caulking like Sikaflex 291 or 3M 4200 or Totalboat Total Seal. Totalboat Total Strip paint remover works well to remove bottom paint. If you are going down to bare fiberglass/gelcoat, it's a good time to apply a barrier coat like Totalboat Total Protect, 4 to 5 coats, then 2 coats of bottom paint. Not enough information to suggest a bottom paint. You can look at our bottom paint survey to see what works in your area. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/surveyMap.do?surveyId=101
  6. Hi Christine, You can mix and pour another batch on top even if it's still tacky. Just be sure to mix really well. Usually it remains tacky because that area wasn't mixed enough. No need to sand as the sticky part will not sand well. Mixing another batch and pouring after the first batch should be fine, again it must be mixed well so the hardener can do it's job.
  7. Since aluminum oxidizes in air, I would sand with 80 grit to a bright finish just before applying epoxy or primer.
  8. This product is best applied between 70 to 80 degrees. At those temperatures it could take a week to fully cure. The project is not ruined. Bring the Epoxy and the table top up to at least 70 degrees. Mix up a batch and poor it on top. It should self level and dry clear. Be sure it is mixed well. Be sure the epoxy doesn't have crystals from cold storage. STORAGE: Store at 60-90°F in a dry place. After use, tightly reseal all containers. Store products on a raised surface off the floor during cold weather and avoid storing near outside walls or doors. Epoxy resins that are contaminated with dust or moisture, or are subjected to low temperatures may crystallize. Do not use material that has any sign of crystallization until it has been liquified. A crystallized resin or hardener can be returned to its original state by heating the material to 140°F to 150°F and stirring until it returns to the liquid state.
  9. On a new factory painted bottom simply scuff sand with 80 grit and apply 2 coats of bottom paint. Use a copper free bottom paint like Totalboat Krypton so you won't have a reaction with the aluminum.
  10. Here is the instructions for overcoating the Gluvit: To overcoat Gluvit after cure, wash the surface with warm soapy water or a dilute vinegar solution and a fine abrasive pad, or wet sand, then dry with clean towels or cloth. Frost-sand surface with 80-100 grit sandpaper to remove any gloss. Gluvit can be overcoated with any marine paint or other coating compatible with epoxies. Polyester resins, such as gelcoat, do not adhere well to epoxy material. I'd recommend priming first with Totalboat Total Protect barrier coat primer, when it is thumb tacky apply the first coat of bottom paint. I'd recommend our copper free Totalboat Krypton bottom paint, apply 2 coats.
  11. i would sand with 80 grit to remove the pitting and paint down to bright aluminum. Clean well with denatured alcohol. Then apply Totalboat Etch Wash, let sit for 5 minutes and rinse off with water, let dry. Chances are some of those pits will be fairly deep if not all the way through when sanded. If all the way through fill with Totalboat Aluminum Boat Sealer (Thixo). Then I'd coat the whole bottom Gluvit then apply a bottom paint.
  12. A good sanding with 80 grit so that it is all abraded even if it removes some of it is what you want, then 4 to 5 coats of barrier coat and 2 coats of bottom paint. After sanding vacuum or blow off the dust, clean well with denatured alcohol then start the barrier coats.
  13. It looks like you are on track. Just be sure that the wood you are varnishing is up to temperature. If it is cold overnight, it will take a while for it to come up to temperature once the heat is turned on. You shouldn't have to thin the Epifanes much, just enough to get it to flow easily.
  14. electric

    I'm not a marine electrician but can tell you how to test for positive or negative. If you have a main battery switch turn it on. Use a multimeter set to DC current. Place the black lead to a know ground and the other to one of the wires you're testing. If there is no reading it could be a negative, if it reads 12 volts it's a positive wire. Check the bus bar to see if it is wired as a common ground. If so the grounds would go from the bus bar directly to each device. The positive will go from the feed to a switch and then to the device so that when the switch is off the device has no power.
  15. You will get a better bond using epoxy to the sub layer than with laminating polyester resin. Top lamination with that polyester should be fine finished with an air dry gel coat so the polyester lamination cures up.
  16. Yes the same process whether it's the regular or cold formula. The cold weather penetrating epoxy only use between 40 and 65 degrees. Any warmer than that use the regular formula.
  17. Penetrating will work well to seal the teak prior to varnish. After cleaning and sanding, wipe with acetone to remove any oils and contamination. Thin the first coat 25% with acetone so it penetrates further. (note: this will darken the teak in appearance) Apply a second coat unthinned after the first coat has dried and been washed with water, sand with 220 grit. Allow the second coat to dry 3 to 5 days depending on temperature, wash and sand with 220 grit and apply the first coat of varnish thinned only enough to flow well.
  18. I would suggest 6 to 8 coats of spar varnish like Totalboat Gleam. It is easy to brush or spray. It is an amber color traditional spar varnish and should last a long time indoors.
  19. Sounds like a carburetor problem but I'm not an engine mechanic, maybe someone else can chime with some help.
  20. I can't say whether aluminum or graphite power would be best. The graphite is black and would require a lot of white pigment to get to a light gray. If the color is important, go with the aluminum.
  21. For the inside 2 quarts of Wet Edge Boston Whaler Blue should be enough for two coats. You will want to thin that with 5 to 10% of TotalBoat Thinner 100 and use a 4" foam roller on the flat areas, and brush the corner areas. Apply this paint in a THIN coat and will will lay down well without tipping, don't load the roller real heavy with paint and work the roller lightly over the surface so as not to introduce bubbles in the paint and stretch the paint out to a thin even coating. Let dry, sand lightly with 220 grit and apply another coat.
  22. Polypropylene is very difficult to get paint to stick to it. The surface must be very clean. Clean the surface well with soap and water, let dry. Scuff the surface with 80 grit sand paper, clean well with denatured alcohol. Gently heat plastic with propane torch until surface looks oily. Clean again with denatured alcohol. Paint with a two part polyurethane primer like Totalboat Total Protect or Interlux 2000E two coats, when dry, sand with 80 grit and apply 2 coats of bottom paint.
  23. If you want to fill the voids with a brown colored epoxy then you would add the wood flour to the mixed epoxy to thicken it, mix well then apply to the seam or void. If you want it clear, just pour the epoxy in the seam and let settle and cure. You would want to use the clear hardener if you want the unthickened epoxy to be clear. Look at our Thixo Wood which is a thickened epoxy in a caulking cartridge which is premixed: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97748&familyName=TotalBoat+Thixo+Wood+2%3A1+Epoxy+System
  24. No, a quart won't be enough for 4 to 5 coats, better off with a gallon.
  25. To overcoat Gluvit after cure, wash the surface with warm soapy water or a dilute vinegar solution and a fine abrasive pad, or wet sand, then dry with clean towels or cloth. Frost-sand surface with 80-100 grit sandpaper to remove any gloss. Gluvit can be overcoated with any marine paint or other coating compatible with epoxies. Polyester resins, such as gelcoat, do not adhere well to epoxy material. We always using a primer first on top of an epoxy coating prior to painting. If there is pitting on the surface it would be best to apply Gluvit over that, may just be easier to paint the whole bottom.