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      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 

RickW

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Everything posted by RickW

  1. If it is going to see movement I would use Sikaflex 291.
  2. Hi Bob, I think we spoke on the phone, normally we would recommend the Totalboat Penetrating Epoxy thinned 25% with acetone but I believe you wanted this wood to weather to a nature color. That may still happen if you sand the surface after the epoxy dries but I can't guarantee it would weather the way you want.
  3. Electric planer is the best way I know of. Other than that, a hand plane is a lot of work.
  4. Not sure, usually what happens if you use 5200 on the seams and the wood shrinks, it cracks the planks. I don't know why the 5200 would crack unless it was thin in that area and or there wasn't good adhesion for some reason.
  5. Clean well, sand with 80 grit, clean with acetone then apply 2 thin coats of Totalboat Total Bilge. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97747&familyName=TotalBoat+TotalBilge+Epoxy+Bilge+Paint
  6. Unfortunately Awlgrip is very difficult to repair and the smallest quantity sold is a quart. You can't buff out awlgrip because it will scratch it and remove the high gloss. If it's just a few small scratches you could use an artist brush and paint them in. The best remedy is to bring it to a professional shop.
  7. Ok, thanks for the picture. I see what you mean. My recommendation is to grind that out beveling the edges out about 2 to 3 " beyond the damage. Clean well with acetone. Cut out 1708 biaxial cloth to fill the damage area, first layer just a little bigger than the inside of the hole, the next larger to overlap the first, then another larger lay up until you covered the whole area and are almost out to the edge. Lay it up with 5:1 epoxy resin. You can finish the last layer with 4 or 6 oz fiberglass cloth for a smoother finish. Let that cure up overnight. Then wash with water in case there is any amine blush, sand with 80 grit, then clean well with acetone. Then you can use a polyester fairing compound to fair out the area. When that is cured, sand smooth, clean with acetone and then gel coat over to finish.
  8. If you are going to use gel coat as a finish coat use polyester resin or out Polyester Fairing compound. It would help if you could send a couple pictures.
  9. I'd recommend Sikaflex 291 Here is the link: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3512
  10. Bill, Did you get a replacement quart of the Epifanes WF Gloss to see if a new can did the same or was that last picture using the same product? Sorry it didn't work out, we usually don't see problems with Epifanes products.
  11. You could use the Totalboat Wet Edge single part polyurethane or Interlux Brightside which are more colors but you will need to sand the old paint off, etch wash, Total protect primer then the topside paint.
  12. OK, lets start by eliminating some causes. 1. Did you strain the varnish? 2. Are you sure your brush is totally clean, no small dust particles in it? Clean well, and before using it shake it out well, then dab it on some masking tape wrapped around your hand with the sticky side out. 3. What kind of heater are you using? Could that be blowing dust around or causing bubbles. 4. Are there bubbles on the surface when brushing or do they appear after when it's drying? It's difficult to tell if they are bubbles or dust particles. I can't tell from the picture.
  13. If it was previously painted, you will want to sand that with 220 grit and prime, then the topside paint. If it's gelcoat, you will want to clean it well, sand with 220 grit, dewax with a dewaxing solvent, then prime with a two part epoxy primer. If you choose Brightside use the Interlux primer. If you choose Wet Edge use the Totalboat primer.
  14. The best solution would be to apply a coat of epoxy, we have Gluvit Epoxy Water Sealer that will work well. You can apply a coat of paint on that. Here is the link: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2091&familyName=Marine-Tex+Gluvit+Epoxy+Water+Sealer
  15. We have an Aluminum Boat Topside paint that would be good in your application if the colors offered fit your need. Here is the link: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=336274&familyName=TotalBoat+Aluminum+Boat+Topside+Paint This paint doesn't need a primer and can go over existing paint in good condition, just sand and apply.
  16. The Thixo is fine for a gap filler or adhesive but to extend the edge you would need to add some fiberglass cloth and resin for structural strength. Fiberglass cloth and regular epoxy resin would be what you want to use.
  17. I would recommend using a thickened epoxy like Totalboat Thixo rather than a fairing compound, that would be stronger.
  18. As indicated in the above video, remove the existing old varnish being careful not to sand through the veneer if it is a veneer. Clean well and start with a gloss varnish like Epifanes clear gloss, or Pettit Captains or Totalboat Gleam. Thin first coat 50%, second coat 25% then the rest just enough to get it to flow well. Apply 6 to eight coats sanding between coats once it is dry. You can switch to a satin on the final 2 coats if you want a satin finish. Follow the tips on the above video.
  19. Hard to tell which, could be either. We recommend replacing both the helm and the cable.
  20. A regular spar varnish is commonly used like Pettit Captains or our Totalboat Gleam. We also have a water based poly called Halcyon varnish that is a semi-gloss and dries to a really hard finish. Any of those would be fine.
  21. We sell a Salt Terminator product that may help to remove salt and mineral deposits, here is the link: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11600 I would recommend priming first with a two part epoxy primer barrier coat like Totalboat Total Protect and then applying a copper free antifouling paint.
  22. I would recommend cleaning the area to attach the plate first with a dewaxer, tape off and scuff sand with 80 grit, dewax clean again, then use our Totalboat Thixo Thickened epoxy cartridge and apply to the plate with a notched spreader. Place it on the hull and secure until it cures, usually 12 hours at 65 degrees. You can use the same thixo to fill the gouges first and sand smooth before applying the plate.
  23. You could fill the gaps with a clear epoxy resin like Totalboat 2:1 Epoxy Kit which will dry clear and fill the cracks. I would recommend cleaning the cracks out well first, fill with the resin, let cure then sand the floor.
  24. You will need to scuff up the acrylic with 80 grit sandpaper first, clean with acetone, then apply a couple coats of Total Protect sand smooth then the gelcoat. Just not sure how long that system will hold up.
  25. Thickened epoxy will work well. Thixo either regular or Thixo Wood will also work. The Thixo Wood is going to be a light brown color, whereas the regular epoxy and regular Thixo will be a white opaque color.