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Everything posted by RickW

  1. If there are a lot of layers of paint, it would require a lot of sanding. A paint remover will be quicker and easier on the non-skid areas.
  2. You could sand or use a paint stripper. We have a product, Totalboat Total Strip that works well removing multiple layers of paint. Apply about a 1/4" thick and cover with plastic wrap to prevent drying out. Leave on for 4 to 8 hours, peel off the plastic and scrape the remaining stripper and old paint off.
  3. If you want to use a single part paint use Totalboat Topside primer and then Totalboat Wet Edge topside paint. If you want to use a two part polyurethane you will need to prime with the Totalboat 2 Part primer.
  4. After the Thixo has cured, wash with water in case there is any amine blush, sand smooth and clean well with acetone. Then you can apply gel coat or prime and paint.
  5. We always using a primer when painting epoxy. First wash the epoxy once cured and scrub with a scotchbrite pad and rinse clean. Let dry, sand with 80 - 120 grit and prime. I'd suggest a single part polyurethane like Totalboat Wet Edge on top of one or two coats of Totalboat Topside Primer. Apply thin coats and sand between coats. Sand the primer with 220 grit before applying the top coat and clean with denatured alcohol.
  6. The addition of acetone shouldn't change the cure time. At 85 - 95 degrees I would expect it to cure enough to be sanded in 24 hours or less.
  7. The Kiwi Grip is a latex paint that is thick and the grit is applied by a texture roller. Total Tread is a solvent based polyurethane paint with non-skid particles in it. The Total Tread is a harder paint than Kiwi Grip.
  8. If epoxy is not prepared properly prior to applying gel coat it can cause problems with the gel coat. The process is; after the epoxy has cured, wash with water and scrub with a scotchbrite pad and rinse clean. Let dry. Sand to desired smoothness. Clean well with acetone, then apply the gel coat. I'd suggest clean the wet areas with acetone to remove it. Wash that area with water incase there is an amine blush left (acetone will not remove it). Sand, clean well again with acetone, then apply gel coat.
  9. To use polyester over epoxy we recommend washing and scrubbing with water. Sand with 80 grit and wipe well with acetone.
  10. The problem with stainless screws is that if starved of oxygen they will gall and rust. They need oxygen to form a thin oxide film to be in a passive state. Silicon Bronze doesn't have that problem.
  11. The Totalboat Total Protect Barrier Coat/Primer and Wet Edge topside paint is a good option. After the hull is repaired, faired out and sanded, be sure to clean well Totalboat Dewaxer & Surface Prep. Apply the Total Protect, sand smooth the 220 to 320 grit then apply 2 to 3 thin coats of Wet Edge.
  12. Yes, the prisma preforms would be good for replacing beams and stringers.
  13. Amine Blush is a waxy substance that can form on the surface of epoxy resin when it cures. It needs to be removed with water prior to applying more epoxy or a finish on top. The 2 to 1 epoxy doesn't blush when curing eliminating that step.
  14. The 2 to 1 Epoxy is a non-blush epoxy, low viscosity, and comes in slow, medium and fast hardeners. The 5 to 1 is not non-blushing and two hardeners, slow and fast. The 2 to 1 also dries clear.
  15. Take a look at the Epifanes Mono-urethane single part paint. There isn't a Royal Blue but close would be a Bright Blue or Medium Blue. Painting on epoxy you will need to use a primer first. Look at Totalboat Topside Primer. We have a flat white in the Totalboat Wet Edge.
  16. I'd recommend waiting at least a week before applying the new decal.
  17. Marine plywood sealed with Totalboat Penetrating Epoxy is a good choice. I would coat the entire plywood surfaces with the 1st coat thinned 25% with acetone, and a second coat straight, unthinned.
  18. After replacing the spongy area, there are many options for the decking. Here is a link for a cork product that is really nice, no maintenance option: http://hewesco.com/cnc-marine/marinedeck.html Here is another option: http://www.permateek.com/landing/northeastern-marine-improvements/?utm_source=BMON AdWords campaign&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BMON AdWords (Search) Also you could fiberglass the deck and paint a non-skid coating if you want to go that route using something like Totalboat Total Tread.
  19. There are a couple of choices. You could use a product like Titebond II wood glue or something stronger like an epoxy. You could mix some silica and epoxy resin together for gluing, or buy it already in a tube in our Thixo Product.
  20. It is recommended to prime. Going on top of Brightside in good condition you could probably skip the primer, clean, sand with 220 grit, clean with denatured alcohol and apply in thin coats.
  21. I recommend using shackles from the pendant thimbles to the sling link. If you ever need to replace a line it's a lot easier. There is no easy way to get the thimble on the link without opening up the thimble.
  22. I don't think adding 333 thinner to the Enamel that has Penetrol in it will be a problem if it needs thinning.
  23. I'd first recommend removing any old finish on the door and sealing it with our Totalboat Penetrating Epoxy. Let that cure 3 - 4 days and then start the varnish coats. The Epifanes Clear Gloss or Wood Finish Gloss are excellent products and will work well, probably better than Sikkens. We also have some Totalboat Varnishes that are quick drying allowing 2 to 3 coats a day. Look at Totalboat Gleam, which is an easy to use varnish, and Lust which is a fast dry varnish. Thinning with our Thinner 100 allows them to flow better for a smoother coat.
  24. Interlux recommends using their Brushing Liquid # 333 for thinning their Yacht Enamel.
  25. Seal the tube the best you can with tape or a wire nut and tape. Some people put it in a freezer until needed. Over time though it will harden in the tube once opened.