Dan in RI

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About Dan in RI

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    SK RI
  • Interests
    skiing, 911s, bicycling, guitars, strong coffee, good beer, bad dogs, sun, snow, being alive
  1. Do you mean solvent-based when you say oil-based? If so, yeah it's not uncommon to apply waterbased over them as long as the existing paint is in good condition. Not flaking etc. I cannot emphasize this enough. People complain about such and such paint (water or solvent based) not sticking well - guess what? ALL paints stick just fine given proper preparation. My father uses the JD brand water based paint on his Catalina 34, switched from Hydrocoat to JD Select and this will be his 3rd year. His boat faired no worse than the guy at the next mooring over, who used $270/gallon paint!
  2. I am experimenting with some scrap pieces of teak wood, to get a better feel for what its like to work with teak. I hope to build an outdoor patio table in the next month or two, and you really can't beat the timeless look of teak. My predicament:The plans I am looking at call for pocket hole screw and glue joinery. The screws will be stainless steel, but my understanding is that regular carpenter's or similar 1 part adhesives are ineffective on teak due to it's oily nature. Doing some digging online, I saw that the best course of action is to keep the glued ends rough sanded and wipe down with acetone before bonding and clamping. Are there other options? Would Gorilla Wood Glue work? I would strongly prefer to not have to deal with manually mixing ratios. Teak is too expensive to take a chance and have it turn out poorly. Your advice is appreciated!