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    • skiptabor

      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 

Dan in RI

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About Dan in RI

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    SK RI
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    skiing, 911s, bicycling, guitars, strong coffee, good beer, bad dogs, sun, snow, being alive
  1. Do you mean solvent-based when you say oil-based? If so, yeah it's not uncommon to apply waterbased over them as long as the existing paint is in good condition. Not flaking etc. I cannot emphasize this enough. People complain about such and such paint (water or solvent based) not sticking well - guess what? ALL paints stick just fine given proper preparation. My father uses the JD brand water based paint on his Catalina 34, switched from Hydrocoat to JD Select and this will be his 3rd year. His boat faired no worse than the guy at the next mooring over, who used $270/gallon paint!
  2. I am experimenting with some scrap pieces of teak wood, to get a better feel for what its like to work with teak. I hope to build an outdoor patio table in the next month or two, and you really can't beat the timeless look of teak. My predicament:The plans I am looking at call for pocket hole screw and glue joinery. The screws will be stainless steel, but my understanding is that regular carpenter's or similar 1 part adhesives are ineffective on teak due to it's oily nature. Doing some digging online, I saw that the best course of action is to keep the glued ends rough sanded and wipe down with acetone before bonding and clamping. Are there other options? Would Gorilla Wood Glue work? I would strongly prefer to not have to deal with manually mixing ratios. Teak is too expensive to take a chance and have it turn out poorly. Your advice is appreciated!