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      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 


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About DuffyM_in-NH

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  1. I've got an old (unknown age) kevlar canoe which has small surface cracks on the outer hull bottom and bilge area. I'm assuming the cracks are from the hull flexing as there are no cracks on the sides. I do not know if the surface is a colored epoxy, gel-coat or paint. The cracks are tight with no separation from the hull. How do I determine what the surface is? Then what can I do to fix the problem? Mike
  2. I'm using spar-varnish on my wooden canoes. After opening a can and pouring out what I'll need I replace the cover. A day later or so when I reopen the can I always find a layer of semi-dry varnish on the surface. I'm assuming that the air that gets in the can is reacting with the varnish. Is there any way to eliminate or reduce this problem? Mike
  3. I heat my shop with a wood-stove. The output is not constant and the shop temp changes maybe 40 degrees in a 24 hr period. How will the constantly changing temp affect the quality of the epoxy as it cures. I can keep the shop above 40 as long as the outside temp remains above 0. The temp can get as high as 75 during the day. I'm using Silvertip resin with both slow and fast hardners