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      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 

Billyclub

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  1. Got it fixed. Ended up jacking the lower unit up with car jack and drilling hole in frozen manual release valve to relieve the pressure. Important to remember, cover over the manual release valve with some sealent so corrosion does not seize up valve.
  2. Yes, start with 600 and then 800 etc... eventually you will get to polish out the micro sratches with compound. Use a sanding block if able so you dont sand a divet in the gelcoat
  3. Got around to digging out all the old fiberglass filler type that was under the aluminum edging that surrounded the outboard engine well. The boat is a 27' Ocean Master CC. Ive got about a 1/4" gap that needs to be filled. Was thinkin of using epoxy thickened with fiberglass filler to peanut butter consistency and filling the void. Then wanted to gelcoat but thought gelcoat won't stick to epoxy. I'm all ears, is epoxy what i should be using or should i use 3M 4000 sealant? Will gelcoat stick to epoxy? Any special prep?
  4. last summer the port TT motor went and I need to get to it too change out the elec. pump. Any ideas on how to get the motor up so i can access the pump? The manual release valve is frozen. I tried impact, and lots of PB blaster trying to get it too budge. I resorted to drilling a hol,e in the end of the manual release to relieve the pressure but after doing so I can only get the motor up 10-15 degrees which is not enough to gain access to the tt motor. Help!! Tuna season is around the corner Motor is 1998 Johnson J200 TXECM
  5. Thanks for the reply, pretty much confirmed what I was thinking
  6. I need to know if the the total tread gray matches the gray of the wet edge and if so which shade of gray. I need to paint some non skid areas with different tread patterns but want to keep the same color. Im replacing a section of the gunwale where I reinforced the tuna fighting station. I plan on adding the toatal tread to the new area and will also paint the rest of the nons kid areas on the gunwale in the same shade of gray with wet edge
  7. My picture was very blurry, like to help but can't see the picture
  8. Hello everyone. I have a 27" Ocean Master that I've owned for 2 years. I love the boat but one thing is bothering me. The baitwell is in the aft deck and when the boat is 3/4- full of fuel the lid to the baitwell is at sealevel/ waterline. I want to plumb the baitwell this Spring but I don't want to drill any holes in the transom for overflow discharge untill I'm absolutley positive that the plumbing design is going to work. The question I have stewed over for two years is this. If the 1.5" discharge is at the waterline whats gonna stop the seawater from coming into the baitwell. I'm thinking nothing will stop it and that will overflow the well and leak out onto the deck. Any suggestions or past experience with this type of baitwell. Any help is appreciated