Santas212

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Santas212 last won the day on April 13 2015

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  1. When i got my boat the electrical work was a nightmare, many different people had wired things at different times over 40 years. Things had since broken in various places or rotted out under the deck where i could not see. I have since torn everything out and re-run everything myself. Knowing what every wire is and where it goes is makes trouble shooting so much easier. If you have switches that are hooked to something but you don't know where they go you should definitely follow them out and figure where you are sending the power. Try using a multi meter to test the wires coming into the switch to see if one side is connected to hot (+) power. The other side should be able to connect into your radio's red wire. When the switch is on it will send the positive power through the switch and down the positive side (red) power cable of your radio. The black wire for your radio should be connected to the grounding strip in your boat which should be connected to the negative battery terminal. -steve
  2. Can the total boat nonskid paint be top coated with the wet edge paint? or vice-versa? I was planning to paint the topside of my fiberglass boat with the flat white wet edge paint, but for the deck around my center console i was going to use the beige total boat non-skid paint. Up on the bow of the boat is a little bit of non-skid deck that i would want to be white like the rest of this area, but i don't see the need to buy a whole can of white non skid when it is just a small area. I was thinking i could paint it with the beige non skid (which i am buying anyways) first then double coat it with the flat white wet edge afterwards? what do you think steve
  3. Gary, i am kind of in the same situation with getting my 1970's Mako cleaned up. I am thinking that i will not re-do gelcoat, but instead just use something like the total boat "wet edge" product and roll/brush it on myself. Hopefully it will dry much faster than a spray on gel coat and will leave a nice looking finish when i am done. i was planning to use some marine bondo filler to cover up any cracks, then sand it down smooth, prime the whole boat with total boat primer then paint on the top coat. I am also worried that the money i put into the boat will end up over what the boat is worth, but i guess i am not planning to sell it any time soon so it is more an investment for myself to have a nice looking classic Mako. -steve
  4. That's what i was worried about... maybe ill try to get a couple more years out of it while i save up the money for a new deck! thanks -Steve
  5. Most of the cracks are from old railings which had been removed so most likely the forces that caused the cracks (force put on the old railings) have been removed. I think i will give this stuff a try but 21$ for less than a half ounce! Thats some expensive goup!. thanks steve
  6. Wasn't sure where to post this question, but it seems to fit best under the decking materials forum. I have a 1970's mako that i have owned about 3 years. It isnt in terrible shape but it is definitely showing its age. I wanted to do a whole paint job and get it looking great again, but before i did that i need to make sure it is sound for a good few years first. The issue is, when the boat sits on its trailer for the winter the sections of the deck right around the center console of the boat begin to lift up about 1" It is a very subtle curve in the deck which you can only really tell by getting close to look at it. There is no cracking or splitting of the deck, it just sags a bit when its been on the trailer. Putting it back in the water it flattens right out and becomes happy again. Is this a normal amount of sag? or is it time to cut the whole deck and and replace/repair the stringers and supports and put a new deck in? At what point should i really be concerned about the amount that the deck is lifting up when on the trailer? It doesn't happen right away but within a few days on the trailer it starts to raise up. Any input is appreciated thanks Steve
  7. Hi, Does anyone have experience using PVC boards or Azek brand boards for their vessels? I have been using it for house/window trim for a while and love it for its stain resistance, UV resistance, and it is a rot proof material. I have used a few pieces of it to replace missing hatch covers on my Mako 17' which have held up well over the past two years and stay looking very bright, a little shot of bleach takes off any mildew after the winter very quickly. I am looking to replace the old plastic panels which had been supporting underneath my center console. This old style plastic board was used to cover over the gas tank hole so that the console, slightly smaller, would fit over it. There is about 2" on the sides and 5" in front of the console that needs to be filled for the console to mount on. The old plastic that was used was worn down by the sun almost 3/16ths of an inch from what it used to be and it had become very brittle. I was going to trim out around the gas tank opening in the deck to re-mount the console on top. I was planning to use a few PVC boards from Lowes. I know it will go in easily and will cut nice, and route nice, and i usually use standard PVC cement to weld the pieces together. My questions are: Why haven't i heard of anyone else using this product on their boats? is there a problem with it i don't know about? When i go to paint the deck next year i was thinking of painting over the PVC boards as well to make them the same color as the boat, what primer would be recommended to go over this so that i can apply a top coat of Total Boat wet edge flat white? thanks -steve
  8. Hi, I have a 1970's Mako which has some hairline cracks in the fiberglass gelcoat in spots all over the boat. I wanted to use an epoxy sealer that will soak into the fine cracks and seal them up so i can sand over it and eventually prime and paint. what would you recommend? thanks -steve