• Announcements

    • skiptabor

      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


  • Rank
  • Birthday

Recent Profile Visitors

312 profile views
  1. I was given a 13' Sport. The original owner left it in a field for years, sitting on a rock. It damaged the keel. I was wondering how to go about repairing the damage.
  2. Thanks Rick. I only learned of Thixo about 2 weeks ago from one of the support people at Jamestown. I like the fact that it is dispensed from an ordinary caulk gun. I think I will go this route. Now all I need is for the temps in my garage to climb out of the frigid zone so I can work.
  3. I bought a small package of Marine Tex for filling the many holes left after removing damaged rub rail. Since then, I discovered Thixo. What would be best - either of these products injected into the holes or an epoxy resin w/ some filler? There are a lot of holes! Looks like the boat has experienced more than 1 rub rail in it's 34 year life span!
  4. Thank you Rick. I do like the idea of wood and epoxy for these 2 areas.
  5. That's a possibility but in this area, how would it work when I install the new rub rail? What would I screw/rivet into?
  6. I started picking around badly repaired work on both corners of the transom and, as can be seen, there are deep pockets of missing material - foam is exposed. What would be the steps to repairing something like this?
  7. Thank you for that. I believe the screw mark will be hidden. I can live with the chipped wood and I think my skill level won't permit a dutchman patch! I appreciate the help.
  8. A friend of mine has been battling illness for the past two years and asked me if I can help in restoring his 13' Whaler. He had purchased the full set of replacement wood (mahogany) and asked me if I would finish it. It is completely raw wood. Now I had a Montauk back in the mid 70's but only refinished the wood on that. I am up for this job but I did notice some problems in the wood and am asking for suggestions as to how to deal with those before I even get close to applying the varnish. Here are two pics. One shows that the wood has "frayed" or chipped near the edges. The second shows the results of an errant screw during mock-up. Again, any suggestions would certainly be appreciated.