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      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 

Capt MikeM

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  1. I suggest that after sanding the paint off, that you coat the raw fiberglass with a single coat of 5-1 TotalBoat epoxy. Use a foam roller. Thin it slightly to enhance penetration. This will soak into the glass and seal it as well as making a sound foundation for the TotalFair. Roll off any excess epoxy, since drips will only create more work for you. Sand lightly to abrade the surface before applying TotalFair. Then follow the rest of the steps as Rick outlines.
  2. That mixture is affectionately known as 'Skiff sauce'. I soak wooden belaying pins, parrel beads, wooden cleats (prior to installation) in it for days and then hang them to let them dry. Keep in mind that for some reason (pine tar component?) it does not look good on mahogany, color clash. I have experimented with different formulas and my own 'secret' recipe includes a smidgeon of Penetrol, and teak oil (StarBrite). I use it on wooden items that are better off oiled than varnished, so I don't consider it to be a substitute for varnishing.
  3. One assumes that you haul out every winter since you are in New Bedford. Thus, a multi-season paint designed for warmer waters might be overkill. I keep my boat in Narragansett By and haul out every fall. I use TotalBoat JD Select on my boat. I leave her in for a long season (May thru Sept.) and in August usually pay a young diver to do a bottom job and replace shaft zincs, usually there is only light growth, basically slime at that time. Waters in the bay here have warmed some so I might move to a stronger antifouling if need be, but since I haul and then roll on fresh ablative AF every spring, there seems to be little need in my opinion for such costly paint up in these waters with only seasonal immersion. I also prefer an ablative paint. Even with a single seasonal bottom job at around $60 for the job, I save plenty of money. The JD Select does a great job. If I plan to take her south some time, I will upgrade my paint choice accordingly.
  4. Another excellent solution is to use our TotalBoat 2:1 2-part Penetrating Epoxy. It's low viscosity, you can roll in on and it soaks into the wood and seals it. You can thin it a little bit for better penetration (not too much!) and be sure to mix it well and then a little more. It soaks in deeply; after it cures, fair and paint the door with TotalBoat primer and then a good paint.
  5. Only clean brushes with the varnish manufacturer's recommended solvent, otherwise mineral spirits. Clean them well, change the thinner after the initial cleaning ('rinse'). Never clean with linseed, that's a finish. Boiled linseed will gel up/dry especially quickly and ruin anything left in it. Back in my Coast Guard days, we used to hand-clean oil-based paint brushes in diesel fuel! Some folks will rig a large coffee can with a jig to suspend the cleaned brushes upright (not touching the bottom) and put some mineral spirits in the bottom, and make sure that the can's 'freshness cover' (plastic) can be put back on. The solvent in the bottom and its vapor will help keep the brushes supple and not dried out. Never use acetone or lacquer thinner or xylene for a storage solution.