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      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 

finefurn

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About finefurn

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern NH
  • Interests
    SCUBA Diving, Sailing, Motorcycles, Retired Cabinetmaker/Furniture maker
  1. I am adding a chart plotter to my Hunter 27. I intend to use the current thru hull speed sensor location for the chart plotters transducer. The question is that the current sensor has a hole diameter of 2", the hole diameter for the chart plotters transducer is 1 1/4". What is the best or preferred way to make up the difference in hole size. The dead rise block that the transducer will be mounted to measures 2" x 8" so it will just barley cover the original hole. Would epoxying in a spacer made fiberglass or some sort of acrylic to act as a reducer bushing work. Would there be a need to bevel the sides of the bushing/hull before epoxying in. Thanks for your help Marty
  2. Just a quick follow up on my Bottom paint job. It didn't matter what ratio I mixed the paint too, I still had the mottling. but if I scuffed the bottom paint after it was thoroughly dry it evened out the color. Not a issue when its in the water, who can see the bottom paint anyway, but on the trailer, maybe for us anal types.
  3. Why the difference between 2 stroke and 4 stroke Outboard motor mounts, Why can't a bracket thats listed for a 2 stroke motor be used for a 4 stroke if the bracket exceeds the weight and hp of the 4 stroke motor. I know that the 4 strokes are heavier, but if the bracket is built to carry a certain amount of weight what difference does motor design make. Also the torque of a 4 stroke is supposed to be greater than the torque of the same hp 2 stroke, but buy what percentage, In short what's the torque ration between 2 stroke vs 4 stroke ?
  4. Thanks Rick I just ordered up some of the Brushing thinner. Any recomendations on the consistancy I'm after. I'm guessing 10 % would be a good stsrting point, but not more than 30 % overall. .
  5. The barrier coat was drying very quickly, so I made sure the last coat was tacky, only about 1 hr. after it was applied, any longer and it would go beyond the tacky stage.. Also it had an " orange peel " surface texture. BTW the paint rollers JD supplies with the Barrier coat kit are CRAP. They come apart when rolling out the finish, had to pick fuzz balls out of the finish. When the Underdog was first opened it had the consistently of Jello with about 1/4 " of solvent on the surface. I used a spiral paint paddle mixing stick on a power drill to mix the paint. It took several minutes to mix it to a uniform consistency of Ketchup , The first coat dried totally Gray except for where it got on the Masking tape, (No mottling) again a orange peel texture. I let it dry overnight and did a quick scuff sand with 80 grit and tack ragged . The second coat has been curing 3 days now, Tomorrow I'm going to move the stands and apply the Barrier coat and Bottom paint on those areas, scuff sand the entire hull and a apply a third coat to see what happens . Of note is that when the Underdog was reopened for the second coat it had thickened, but a few minutes with the mixing paddle on the drill and it was back to looking like Ketchup . Possible the pain is too thick? What would be an appropriate solvent to thin ?
  6. I'm having a problem with some or all compatibility of "Total Boat" products. I'm in the process of restoring the hull on a 30+ yr old FG silboat. I sanded off the 3 previous layers of bottom paint, repaired dozens of blisters and dewaxed the entire hull. I masked off the upper section of the hull and below the waterline and applied 5 coats of "Total Protect" (Gray). I then masked off what will become the boot strap line. Below this boot strap mask I applied 2 coats of Underdog Bottom paint (black). The problem I'm having is the Underdog paint is drying gray. When wet it is pitch black, but as it dries it becomes a mottled gray. The first coat dried totally gray, slightly darker than the "Total Protect". The second coat has become mottled. The areas on the masking tape that the "Underdog" ran over did dry black. What's going on?. why did the area over the "Total Protect" dry gray. The spillage on the can and what is left in the paint tray also dried gray, so I'm not sure its an issue of application. Drying a dark gray is an issue I could live with, although not what I wanted, but not the mottling. See the attached pics of what I'm tying to explain, The lighter gray is the Total Protect, the black is the Underdog over the masking tape and the darker gray is the Underdog over the Total Protect, note the mottling. The second coat of Underdog was applied about 14 hrs after the first coat, and shop temp was in the low 60's Please don't tell me I need to sand this mess off and start over. Is this a paint issue or am I doing something wrong?
  7. I'm in the seemengly lifelong process of restoring a 30 yr old FG sailboat. The previous owner kept the boat in saltwater for the entire season, coupled with very little maintenance. After 2 yrs, I finally got the boat in the water last summer and the last sailing adventure was mid October. It's a 20' mini cruiser and will spend most of its time on the a trailer, being used approx. one a week as a daysailer and long weekender. In Nov I pulled it in the shop to redo the bottom paint. The iron swing keel was badly blistered, so I dropped that, had it sandblasted, uncovering another nightmare. On the hull there were remnants of 3 coats of bottom paint. I chose to sand them off down to the original gel coal. In so doing I uncovered a multitudes of blisters approx. 10 per square foot, most of which are about the size of a dime. Maybe 1 of the 10 will be large enough to have sanded through the gel coat into the substrate and occasionally the FG mat. The others show as a slight difference in color. If this boat were to spend its summers in the water I would without question open up every blister and repair it, a huge undertaking for sure. However since it will be spending most of its life on a trailer, how critical is it to have to repair all these blisters. What will be the likely outcome if I only repair the largest ones. Marty
  8. Hey Rick How's this for a plan or I'm I going to be shooting myself in the foot. Probably not going to be able to get at any oxidation that's down inside the hundreds of large and small cavities on the keel. So what I'm thinking is, First wipe down the keel with Acetone or Solvent Wash 202, Then coat with Total Boat Rusty Metal Primer followed by Total Boat Total Protect Epoxy Primer, Then begin the filling and fairing with a thickened mixture of Total Boat Epoxy . Any recommendations on what type of filler to use when thickening the epoxy. Marty
  9. The paint on the Iron keel on my 20' sailboat was blistering and flaking off in huge rust flakes. I removed the keel and cleaned it up the with a air chisel. In so doing I uncovered a baseball size cavity that had been filled with some sort of Bondo in a previous repair. I'm going to have it sand blasted, which I'm sure will turn up hundreds of smaller cavities. Problem is I'm not going to be able to get a barrier coat on the keel for a day or two after its been sandblasted. What do you recommend to wash down the freshly blasted keel and neutralize any oxidation that may have started. It's mind boggling over the number of products that are available to do this type of job and I have no idea what's compatible with what. I've used Total Boat & West epoxies and have some still on the shelf and would like to use them if feasible. What do I start with and what do I finish with.
  10. Hi Rick I'm in the forever ongoing process of restoring a "74" fiberglass sailboat. Last year I painted the hull down to the water line with Total Boat Wet Edge. I intentionally overlapped an inch or two below the water line. I was running out of time so I decided to forgo the bottom paint until the boating season was over. The boat is now indoors up on stands and I'm ready to tackle the Bottom. Question is, How compatible is Pettit unepoxy with Total Boat Wet Edge. Can I mask off the water line sand and prep the bottom and overlap the Wet Edge at the waterline with the Pettit Unepoxy. The boat will be stored on a trailer and used in both saltwater and fresh. When in use it probably will not be in the water for more than a week at a time, most likely 2-3 days. Marty
  11. I just finished painting the hull with Total Boat Wet edge with 2 coats over a contrasting color, It came out awesome, very smooth high gloss, I could shave in the reflection. My trailer bunks extend above the water line in some areas. How long will I need to let the painted surface cure before I can let the boat back down on the trailer without imprinting the bunks into the freshly painted surface. The boat weights just shy of 2000 lbs
  12. I just completed painting the entire topside of our sailboat with Total Boat Wet Edge, The surfaces texture varies quite a bit from a perfectly smooth high gloss to brush marks, paint sags, dust nubs and insects stuck in the paint.. I obviously need to scuff back to a smooth surface and recoat, Can any defects that show up in the 2nd coat be wet sanded out, buffed & polished to a high glossy to match the areas that came out correctly. If so what rubbing and polishing compound do you recommend.
  13. I needed to remove a portion of the vinyl rub rail insert to access the screws underneath. The portion I removed was very stiff and I'm having some doubts as to weather I'll be able to reinstall it or how to go about it. Jamestown sells a insert that is very similar to it if not an exact copy (V12-0303) of the style I removed. Can the original section be softened or made more pliable, and what is the best way to install it or totally new insert.
  14. Can a Total Boat Epoxy resin/hardener mix be thinned to create a penetrating epoxy mixture? If so what solvent should be used and at what ratio?. I only need a small amount and don't want to buy a full quart only to let 3/4 go unused.
  15. Not interested in fairing the area since it will be covered with a removable headliner to hide wiring & thru bolts for deck hardware. How many layups of 6 or 10 oz cloth would you recommend, The original skin thickness was .060 - 090 .