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      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 

JDAnswerBot

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Everything posted by JDAnswerBot

  1. It's a great product for cleaning bronze with very little tarnish, a quick clean up. For instance I has a clock and a barometer down below that wernt bad, they cleaned right up. if its a heavy tarnish build up it won't take it off. I am yet to find a good product for heavy build up.
  2. Ed, don't know why Jamestown sent this to me since I live in the SE, (Georgia). Anyway, I have my boat in a fresh water lake year round. In the summer, slime accumulates but is easily brushed or rinsed off. During the colder months little slime accumulates. Jimmy
  3. Be careful! This product is "Boiled Linseed" which is quite different than "Raw Linseed". Personally I would not use either product to clean a brush. I suggestion you follow the cleaning instructions on the can of varnish, since the composition of "varnish"can vary dramaticaly between manufacturers.
  4. The color is slightly darker but have seen no difference in the performance. I have bought many tubes for my boat and I'm very satisfied with this product.
  5. Hey Bob,The Waveblade works great on all of the hard surfaces on my boat without any damage...even bottom paint.I'm not sure what your dock and seawall are contructed of...but if it is not a hard surface, I wonder if the occilating action of the Waveblade may "dig" into softer surfaces like wood.Hope this helps!Steve.
  6. Hi Mike, There are two posts on the back side of the switch. You will need to purchase a additional battery cable or two the length will depend on where you mount the switch. I went from the positive side of the battery to one terminal on the switch and hocked the electrical supply cable to the other stud. All you are doing is putting a break in the supply cable.
  7. The brush thinner is a heavier viscosity liquid than the spray thinner and thus more suited to brush cleaning and / or varnish thinning. The spray thinner is less viscous and is formulated to meet the major thinning requirements when spraying varnish. Varnish formulation is quite a science and, given the prominence of the work, should be done right.
  8. Cannot answer question because I have only used this product with rotted wood only. It worked very well in restoring a rotted wood situation. However, I have no idea what problem Dominique is confronting. Sorry.
  9. We don't know, have not used the watch yet, it is a Christmas present. Our only observation is that it is a really large watch; very easy to read when starting but is big on your wrist.
  10. Bomar sales special adhesive inside (between aluminium chassis and the lexan), then seal the top with 3m/5200
  11. The size that these come in are 35-1/2 inches X 47-1/2 inches X 1/8 inch sheets, and you will cut it to the size that you need.
  12. I'm not familiar with that book, but if you thin this varnish 50%, then 25% and so on, it flows out beautifully and there's no need for a separate sealer coat.... at least in my experience. Use the proprietary thinner from Epifannes.
  13. Don, I find these to work well on all sorts of finishes except latex. I use on oil based enamels, varnish, polyurathane and water and nitrocelulose based laquers. They work especilly well for contour surfaces. Enjoy!
  14. I would imagine it is referring to "fine" thread and opposed to "course" thread. They would be shown as 1/4"-20 as course or 1/4"-28 as fine.
  15. I use these to scuff varnish, interestingly on acrylic coated canvas fine art prints which is quite a bit different from furniture or boats. They will scuff your coat to give it a small amount of tooth for a final finish, but they are not going to flat sand in the same way wet sanding does with regular sand paper. I use them both wet and dry but usually wet. The auto body people use these if that helps with what they do. For a very fine scuffing using paper, Jamestown sells very, very fine 3M sandpaper. I use 2000 grit. The scuff pads are quite flexible and easy to use however. Doyne Loyd (Margaret is my wife) I am not supposed to include links but if you want to see what I mean by canvas prints you can go to our website via a search.
  16. I cannot comment, I've only used them for one part varnish. Very good foam brushes.
  17. I don't know about most DIY'ers, but I have great faith in Evercoat. It sets as quick as you let it by the amount of kicker. I think "not too quick"is better. Experiment to see how quick a sample sets off to make sure you have time to work it. It sands easily and take paint very nicely. I have used it for many applications, in particular to repair pottery and the likes where the "owner" could not find where it was broken.Good LuckJohn Richmond
  18. It's not strong by itself, usually used between layers of composite material. you'd be better off with a good grade of plywood laminated in a few layers, covered with fiberglass.
  19. I don't know about inflatable boats but I used it on my canvas covered kayak. It worked great. It soaked into the canvas and sealed it very well. I put on three coats to make a nice glossy finish.
  20. Just use a shackle and a splice on the rope .All the best, capt. Hagen