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      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 

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Found 15 results

  1. Is there a way to get some accurate color samples of the colors available for the Wet Edge Topside Paint? Different monitors and printers come out with different shades and I would like to have an actual chip chart or color swatches to try and match something on my boat. Are there any physical samples swatches or chip charts available to be purchased? Thanks.
  2. I'm building my first boat, a 16' stitch-and-glue kayak, and have a question regarding the finish. The entire hull will be fiber glassed. I would like to paint the waterline with Wet Edge and the rest of the boat with varnish. What should my process be? Should I apply the wet edge and then varnish over top of it, should I varnish then paint over the varnish, or should I mask and split the two? Also as some one new to the whole boat building thing, should I use Gleam or Lust varnish? Thanks
  3. I have my Starcraft upside down, and in the garage. I need to know best method / process to remove the current waterline and below, and make it shiny and new. I live in Tennessee, on Kentucky Lake, boat stays on trailer 80%, at dock, in slip 20%, not on a lift, in the water. Boat's previous owner lived in NY, boat had some salt water exposure. I have pictures, can take more, will post. please input as needed: Should I : 1. Strip off old paint, and corrosion?---suggest product, process or 2. Sand off old paint and corrosion--suggest grit sizes, I know the process, but tips welcome. I plan to go down to bare metal, don't know if necessary, but I will. Currently the boat does not leak, but paint and corrosion removal may create pinholes, so next step should be? 3. Use Gluvit on entire bottom to seal--if I have no holes, cracks, or deep pitting, will I still require Gluvit? Or is Gluvit a good idea, regardless? 4. Prime-- yes or no? If yes, suggested product? 5. Paint---- Please suggest paint, roll or brush, or does it matter? 6. Please detail any required steps that I left out due to my lack of experience. please pardon my detail, but this is all totally new to me, I have zero experience in this regard, but ability, and time, plus no local shop to do it for me! thanks Lane Douglas tried to load pictures, will continue to try.
  4. Hello, I'm in the process of restoring a 1964 fiberglass run about. I am currently replacing the core of the hull and is going very well. I have a question about what coatings to use for the sides and bottom of boat. When ready to prime/paint I will need to deal with a combo of cleaned and sanded 50 year old gelcoat along with some areas that I will have repaired with thicken poly resin. The sides and bottom will be white and add up to about 140 square feet of area. My original plan was to use a 2 part epoxy primer and finish it with Interlux VC performance bottom paint as I don't really need any antifouling paint. I have since reconsidered because I read that the VC performance does not have any UV resistance and will yellow over time. I am getting a headache reading through forums trying to figure out my best options so I thought I would just ask the question directly. Can you tell me my best option to paint the bottom and sides of my 17 foot runabout. The boat will always be trailered when not in use and will not be in the water for any longer than 6 hours at a time. Probably not more that about 50 hours total a year I was thinking about using Totalboat barrier coat and Totalboat wet edge. Will this be ok or is there a better option? Thanks for your help!! Wally.
  5. I'm restoring and modifying a 1973 Glastron, it is almost complete. The problem I'm running into now that it is almost compete is PINHOLES, lots of them. The paint job looked pretty good at first, then the nightmare began. In the process of modifying the boat I had to grind off the gelcoat in quite a few places. This left raw fiberglass showing with a zillion little pinholes. I thought I had them all fixed until I painted it. Every pinhole of course created a tiny bubble. (Have you heard this before?) I have read about the “pinhole dance” and I don't want to do it. Searching the 'net got the answer of coating them with epoxy thickened with cabosil. This seems counter-intuitive, it seems the epoxy would need to be thin to flow into the pinholes. What is the best way to seal the pinholes? Epoxy or primer, thick or thin or is there a better method? TIA
  6. Approx how much paint should I order? 23 ft boat From the chine to the rubrail will be one color, the stern and topside will be white. Transom bumpout already painted. Center console, rail is approx. 10 inches all around. bottom already painted. Formula 233 if that helps. I will be spraying unless that proves to be too difficult Thanks
  7. I'm having a problem with some or all compatibility of "Total Boat" products. I'm in the process of restoring the hull on a 30+ yr old FG silboat. I sanded off the 3 previous layers of bottom paint, repaired dozens of blisters and dewaxed the entire hull. I masked off the upper section of the hull and below the waterline and applied 5 coats of "Total Protect" (Gray). I then masked off what will become the boot strap line. Below this boot strap mask I applied 2 coats of Underdog Bottom paint (black). The problem I'm having is the Underdog paint is drying gray. When wet it is pitch black, but as it dries it becomes a mottled gray. The first coat dried totally gray, slightly darker than the "Total Protect". The second coat has become mottled. The areas on the masking tape that the "Underdog" ran over did dry black. What's going on?. why did the area over the "Total Protect" dry gray. The spillage on the can and what is left in the paint tray also dried gray, so I'm not sure its an issue of application. Drying a dark gray is an issue I could live with, although not what I wanted, but not the mottling. See the attached pics of what I'm tying to explain, The lighter gray is the Total Protect, the black is the Underdog over the masking tape and the darker gray is the Underdog over the Total Protect, note the mottling. The second coat of Underdog was applied about 14 hrs after the first coat, and shop temp was in the low 60's Please don't tell me I need to sand this mess off and start over. Is this a paint issue or am I doing something wrong?
  8. I am restoring a plywood hulled Dory built in 1978 the boat is in very good condition but needs to be repainted there is some checking in the paint just thin cracks with no peeling paint both inside and outside the hull. What is the recommed way of taking care of this so the new paint will last longer do I sand and coat with some type of sealer prior to paint if so/not what is the recommended fix ?
  9. I recently acquired a 40 year old sailboat that desperately needs some love. The boat is 18 feet long and 500 pounds, so I can't be repainting it every season. Trailered boat Usually hauled out at end of day, but sometimes sits in fresh lake water for several days (on vacation) Mostly freshwater use, but some occasional saltwater (bay) Run up on sandy beach with some small rocks (ouch) Will consider any paint system The hull can be stripped and sanded down to bare fiberglass if necessary. I have been reading about VC Performance Epoxy in the forum and have used Perfection on larger, more rigid boats, but this boat is a bit different. The hull is a bit soft in places, like a new kayak. I will be doing as much strengthening and glassing as I can, but there are limits. It can't be strengthened everyplace. In some places it has the flex of a automobile door panel. Would a hard-finish two-part paint system flex when needed or will it crack and flake? Would a single part polyurethane flex but be too soft for the bottom? Would there be two different paint systems, one for the bottom and one for the top sides? Should gelcoat even be considered anywhere? Thanks in advance
  10. I just finished painting the hull with Total Boat Wet edge with 2 coats over a contrasting color, It came out awesome, very smooth high gloss, I could shave in the reflection. My trailer bunks extend above the water line in some areas. How long will I need to let the painted surface cure before I can let the boat back down on the trailer without imprinting the bunks into the freshly painted surface. The boat weights just shy of 2000 lbs
  11. I just purchased a 1973 venture 24 that needs the keel reglassed. I am going to drop it down, strip it, sand blast it, repaint, and re-fiberglass it. Can you send me a list of materials to do this project with prices? If you have some tips and tricks that would be very helpful too. I am new at this so please make it so a novice can understand. Thank you for your help. Troy.
  12. Hello, I am new to the Jamestown Distributor Community. This post is quite long so bear with me as I am looking for guidance in restoring a 1976 Starcraft. I received the boat in poor shape. It has a 15 ft. fiberglass hull with a wooden floor and a 55 hp Evinrude motor. The motor has since been worked on, and is impressively mechanically sound. It sits in a recessed well in the stern, with characteristic glass panes surrounding the forward area console. The middle glass pane opens allowing access to the bow. I have already replaced the entire floor of the boat, which was completely rotted. That included installing new runners and cross supports for the floors foundation, filling the bays with new foam, and installing the floor itself. In doing so, I (the amateur shipwright that I am) drilled through the antero-lateral port and starboard hulls with long screws which I used to fasten the floor. I have since remedied the situation by withdrawing the screws, cutting them shorter, filling the holes with marine grade sealant, and then screwing the floor back down. Fiberglass strips were used to seal the joints where the floor meets the sides of the hull. Non-slip paint was then added over the floor. The boat is seaworthy. I love the design of this boat, as it is very functional, hydrodynamic, and has a distinct vintage character. I want to restore this boat properly, taking care to repair and reinforce the hull where damage has been inflicted, and to strengthen the structural integrity of the boat where necessary. Aside from the punctures made from the screws, there is mild cracking around some of the cleats, and shallow gouges underneath the boat from hitting submerged objects. I also want to repaint the entire boat, replace old hardware (cleats, lights, etc.), and install new electronics (antenna, radio, fish finder, etc.). I don't want my budget to exceed $1000. I'm doing this all myself because I want to learn about the products and process involved in restoring a boat. My question to you all is how to go about this process. What is the order of operations in regard to what issues to tackle first, products to use, and how. For example: 1.) In repairing the fiberglass hull (cracks around the cleats, shallow gouges in the bottom, punctures through the hull) should I sand out the damage, apply fiberglass and filler, sand, and then paint over my repairs? Should I just fill the scratches and scrapes? Is fiberglass on one side versus both sides of the puncture holes enough, or should I take out the entire floor and glass the inside of the hull as well? What grain sand paper should I use? Sander or grinder? What resin is good to use...polyester laminating or finishing? What fiberglass should I use...chopped strand matting and biaxle fiberglass, or something else? What filler should I use, both over the fiberglass, and for very small scraped areas? Best products to use? 2.) In repainting the hull and deck, should I first sand the boat and then apply the paint? Brush or roller? What type of paint should I apply? Will KiwiGrip adhere to that paint? Do I need to first use a hull cleaner prior to painting? Best products to use? 3.) Should I fiberglass over the plywood floor and then paint over it? Should I sand the floor first? How should I apply the fiberglass...fin roller? Best products to use? I would appreciate any and all feedback, either in regard to the products I will need, or to the best way to accomplish the labor involved, aka the "how to". I have faith in YouTube but I'd really appreciate some guidance! This is a big undertaking and I want to get it right, both structurally and price wise. I want this boat to have vintage flair and be sturdy! Feel free to contact me with more detailed information at nouel87@yahoo.com if need be.
  13. i need to know the advantages and disadvantages to both. i am regelcoating the top side of a fiberglass boat and doing some patch work on the underside. any responses are greatly appreciated!
  14. Simple question: is it reasonable to use a one part topside urethane or other non ablative finish for the hull of my dinghy. It will be trailered exclusively, and used primarily for day sailing. I'm looking for reasonable appearance and not an as new high gloss defect free gel coat sanding fandango exercise. Fairing is ongoing so the hull at least doesn't wind up looking like the surface of the moon once painted. Any specific paint suggestion would be appreciated. Got badly burned buying this dinghy and trailer. Too much enthusiasm I think. Duh. Best regards, Duncan
  15. I have acquired an old flat-bottomed wooden fishing boat. It has some old fiberglass on the bottom that was apparently intended to seal the joints where the sides meet the bottom and a seam where the two halves of the bottom were joined. The remainder of the bottom was simply painted and most of it is flaking off now. I want to seal and waterproof this old classic but have no desire to spend a lot of time or money doing so. These fiberglass sealing "strips" are mostly stuck down pretty well, but should I peel all of them up? Sand off what will come off and seal/paint over them? What product or products should I use to seal and repaint the bottom and sides? Thanks in advance for your advice! KL