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      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 

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Found 10 results

  1. Fiberglass canoe project with hole in bottom - need advice I took on this project; there is hole near the front in center, it's about a 12" gash, (keel if a small ridge can be called that), looks like it has been repaired once before, on inside has a blister (delam I guess). (I'll get some pics up soon so u can see damage both sides) Obvious Ques.: polyester or epoxy resin? Gelcoat and gelcoat color? It's already 2 shades of yellow is painting a good idea, is there special paint? *Would spruce be good substitute for mahogany gunwales from standpoint of bending to follow curve and holding screws? I've heard finish should be Not varnish but oil? I've seen boats with some kind of standoff interior gunwale, is this about having continuous tie down points? My pics are over the limit - It's a no name 16' x 32" canoe, has 2 wooden seats and yoke attached at gunwales.
  2. I'm restoring and modifying a 1973 Glastron, it is almost complete. The problem I'm running into now that it is almost compete is PINHOLES, lots of them. The paint job looked pretty good at first, then the nightmare began. In the process of modifying the boat I had to grind off the gelcoat in quite a few places. This left raw fiberglass showing with a zillion little pinholes. I thought I had them all fixed until I painted it. Every pinhole of course created a tiny bubble. (Have you heard this before?) I have read about the “pinhole dance” and I don't want to do it. Searching the 'net got the answer of coating them with epoxy thickened with cabosil. This seems counter-intuitive, it seems the epoxy would need to be thin to flow into the pinholes. What is the best way to seal the pinholes? Epoxy or primer, thick or thin or is there a better method? TIA
  3. I am adding a chart plotter to my Hunter 27. I intend to use the current thru hull speed sensor location for the chart plotters transducer. The question is that the current sensor has a hole diameter of 2", the hole diameter for the chart plotters transducer is 1 1/4". What is the best or preferred way to make up the difference in hole size. The dead rise block that the transducer will be mounted to measures 2" x 8" so it will just barley cover the original hole. Would epoxying in a spacer made fiberglass or some sort of acrylic to act as a reducer bushing work. Would there be a need to bevel the sides of the bushing/hull before epoxying in. Thanks for your help Marty
  4. I recently acquired a 40 year old sailboat that desperately needs some love. The boat is 18 feet long and 500 pounds, so I can't be repainting it every season. Trailered boat Usually hauled out at end of day, but sometimes sits in fresh lake water for several days (on vacation) Mostly freshwater use, but some occasional saltwater (bay) Run up on sandy beach with some small rocks (ouch) Will consider any paint system The hull can be stripped and sanded down to bare fiberglass if necessary. I have been reading about VC Performance Epoxy in the forum and have used Perfection on larger, more rigid boats, but this boat is a bit different. The hull is a bit soft in places, like a new kayak. I will be doing as much strengthening and glassing as I can, but there are limits. It can't be strengthened everyplace. In some places it has the flex of a automobile door panel. Would a hard-finish two-part paint system flex when needed or will it crack and flake? Would a single part polyurethane flex but be too soft for the bottom? Would there be two different paint systems, one for the bottom and one for the top sides? Should gelcoat even be considered anywhere? Thanks in advance
  5. I bought a wooden hull that has been fiber-glassed and now I want to make the sides clear, showing the plywood grain. It is milky looking. Will it turn clear, becoming transparent when I apply varnish? Is there more to do besides the cleaning and surface prep? FYI: It is a Glen~L Zip. This is my first experience both building a boat and working with wood of any configuration. I am a true novice in all areas concerned.
  6. i am wondering if sea hawk sharkskin gel coat would be the best gel coat for applying multiple coats of gelcoat. i am also wondering if anyone else knows any other brands that work good for regelcoating an entire boat. My boat is a fiberglass boat if this is necessary for selecting gel coat.
  7. Hello, I have acquired a Hobie Cat 18 (1985) that stayed in a yard for 15 years. I buffed her out as best as possble and sailed her in 2014, now I want to fix her up. The hull has very thin surface, dull and has a few stress cracks. I have watched your videos on how to fix the cracks; I just need to ask what is the best product to fill them in with? Next is the thin hull surface. Should I re-gel coat or ues a two part epoxy promer then a topside paint? Thank you for your time. DJ
  8. I just purchased a 1973 venture 24 that needs the keel reglassed. I am going to drop it down, strip it, sand blast it, repaint, and re-fiberglass it. Can you send me a list of materials to do this project with prices? If you have some tips and tricks that would be very helpful too. I am new at this so please make it so a novice can understand. Thank you for your help. Troy.
  9. Hello, I am new to the Jamestown Distributor Community. This post is quite long so bear with me as I am looking for guidance in restoring a 1976 Starcraft. I received the boat in poor shape. It has a 15 ft. fiberglass hull with a wooden floor and a 55 hp Evinrude motor. The motor has since been worked on, and is impressively mechanically sound. It sits in a recessed well in the stern, with characteristic glass panes surrounding the forward area console. The middle glass pane opens allowing access to the bow. I have already replaced the entire floor of the boat, which was completely rotted. That included installing new runners and cross supports for the floors foundation, filling the bays with new foam, and installing the floor itself. In doing so, I (the amateur shipwright that I am) drilled through the antero-lateral port and starboard hulls with long screws which I used to fasten the floor. I have since remedied the situation by withdrawing the screws, cutting them shorter, filling the holes with marine grade sealant, and then screwing the floor back down. Fiberglass strips were used to seal the joints where the floor meets the sides of the hull. Non-slip paint was then added over the floor. The boat is seaworthy. I love the design of this boat, as it is very functional, hydrodynamic, and has a distinct vintage character. I want to restore this boat properly, taking care to repair and reinforce the hull where damage has been inflicted, and to strengthen the structural integrity of the boat where necessary. Aside from the punctures made from the screws, there is mild cracking around some of the cleats, and shallow gouges underneath the boat from hitting submerged objects. I also want to repaint the entire boat, replace old hardware (cleats, lights, etc.), and install new electronics (antenna, radio, fish finder, etc.). I don't want my budget to exceed $1000. I'm doing this all myself because I want to learn about the products and process involved in restoring a boat. My question to you all is how to go about this process. What is the order of operations in regard to what issues to tackle first, products to use, and how. For example: 1.) In repairing the fiberglass hull (cracks around the cleats, shallow gouges in the bottom, punctures through the hull) should I sand out the damage, apply fiberglass and filler, sand, and then paint over my repairs? Should I just fill the scratches and scrapes? Is fiberglass on one side versus both sides of the puncture holes enough, or should I take out the entire floor and glass the inside of the hull as well? What grain sand paper should I use? Sander or grinder? What resin is good to use...polyester laminating or finishing? What fiberglass should I use...chopped strand matting and biaxle fiberglass, or something else? What filler should I use, both over the fiberglass, and for very small scraped areas? Best products to use? 2.) In repainting the hull and deck, should I first sand the boat and then apply the paint? Brush or roller? What type of paint should I apply? Will KiwiGrip adhere to that paint? Do I need to first use a hull cleaner prior to painting? Best products to use? 3.) Should I fiberglass over the plywood floor and then paint over it? Should I sand the floor first? How should I apply the fiberglass...fin roller? Best products to use? I would appreciate any and all feedback, either in regard to the products I will need, or to the best way to accomplish the labor involved, aka the "how to". I have faith in YouTube but I'd really appreciate some guidance! This is a big undertaking and I want to get it right, both structurally and price wise. I want this boat to have vintage flair and be sturdy! Feel free to contact me with more detailed information at nouel87@yahoo.com if need be.
  10. I have acquired an old flat-bottomed wooden fishing boat. It has some old fiberglass on the bottom that was apparently intended to seal the joints where the sides meet the bottom and a seam where the two halves of the bottom were joined. The remainder of the bottom was simply painted and most of it is flaking off now. I want to seal and waterproof this old classic but have no desire to spend a lot of time or money doing so. These fiberglass sealing "strips" are mostly stuck down pretty well, but should I peel all of them up? Sand off what will come off and seal/paint over them? What product or products should I use to seal and repaint the bottom and sides? Thanks in advance for your advice! KL