• Announcements

    • skiptabor

      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'teak'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • General Boating Discussion
    • Boat Topics and Questions
    • Bottom Paint Discussions
  • Product Categories
    • Abrasives
    • Anchoring and Docking
    • Apparel
    • Cleaning and Polishing
    • Electrical
    • Electronics
    • Engine Room
    • Epoxy and Adhesives
    • Fasteners
    • Fiberglass Supplies
    • Fishing Tackle
    • Gifts and Books
    • Hand Tools
    • Hardware
    • Marine Supplies
    • Paints
    • Paint Supplies
    • Plumbing
    • Power Tools
    • Storage / Organization
    • Safety
    • Tapes
    • TotalBoat Products
    • Trailer Parts
    • Varnish - Frequently Asked Questions
    • Wood, Foam, Starboard

Found 4 results

  1. I have a small section of rub rail that is pulling away from the other segments. I have some TotalBoat 5:1 epoxy and I can thicken it to glue it back together, but was wondering if Thixo wood would be better. Any opinions on which product would work better? Thanks.
  2. Friends: I am making a one-for-one replacement companionway door for my daughter and son-in-law's motor cruiser. The existing door is made of teak and features stainless steel hardware. Image 49 shows the existing door in its closed position. Image 50 shows the door in its open position. Image 54 shows the basic construction, rails and stiles joined using mortise and tenon construction with the panels fitted into rabbets in the frame pieces. Image 56 shows the dilapidated state of the door. I am planning to make new rails and stiles from teak and to reuse the panels from the existing door. The panels are in reasonable shape and can be restored by sanding and scraping. I am planning to reuse as much of the hardware as I can, probably only having to replace the fasteners. The owners requested that I keep the folding door design rather than make a rigid one-piece replacement door.This door is exposed to weather. Careless use over many years, allowing the door to "bang" open when not secured with the hook seen in images 49 and 50, and my own uncertain skills at cabinet making, leads me to wonder what approach I should take in fabricating the new door. Expansion and contraction of wood exposed to weather indicates that I should use a weatherproof adhesive that will "give" a little (something like Sikaflex) rather than a rigid material (like epoxy) to weatherproof the rail-stile joints. The strong possibility that the new door will suffer from rough usage as did the existing door indicates that I should favor a semi-flexible design instead of something of more rigid construction. The door needs to be weather proof so there is a need to have some weather seal material in the rabbets securing the panels, something that has some "give" to allow for moisture and temperature changes in the various pieces that make up the door. All of that leads me to favor the use of Sikaflex or something similar rather than the use of epoxy or some other rigid adhesive.My inclination (and woodworking skills) leads me to prefer half-lap joints rather than mortise and tenon construction to secure the rails and stiles to each other. I am considering the use of mechanical fasteners (short SS screws with finish washers, two each from inside and outside at each joint) along with a flexible adhesive/sealer at each such joint. This simplified construction should be at least as weather proof as the mortise and tenon construction used in the existing door. The use of half lap construction will make it easier for me to produce tight fitting joints between the rails and stiles. Is this a better approach than to attempt to duplicate the mortise-tenon construction of the existing door?I have experience with both epoxy and Sikaflex, but this is my first time working with teak. I see that there are some semi-flexible materials on the market other than Sikaflex but I have no experience with these other materials. I am not familiar with products like WEST System G/flex Liquid Epoxy. Materials that match the brown color of teak would be high on my wish list. What materials are available that would satisfy my requirements?I would appreciate any comments and suggestions that might be offered.Casey SterbenzEldersburg, MD, USA
  3. I have been refinishing benches in the woods for a non-profit arboretum. I saw an article on youtube that used a mix of 30% spar urethane and 70% teak oil. I have typically used CPES as a sealer. My questions are: 1. Will the CPES work as a base before applying the teak 0il/varnish finish? 2. Are all teak oil finishes the same? 3. What finish would you recommend for continually exposed fir, white oak, yew, and other woods. Thank you in advance. James Marshall
  4. I am experimenting with some scrap pieces of teak wood, to get a better feel for what its like to work with teak. I hope to build an outdoor patio table in the next month or two, and you really can't beat the timeless look of teak. My predicament:The plans I am looking at call for pocket hole screw and glue joinery. The screws will be stainless steel, but my understanding is that regular carpenter's or similar 1 part adhesives are ineffective on teak due to it's oily nature. Doing some digging online, I saw that the best course of action is to keep the glued ends rough sanded and wipe down with acetone before bonding and clamping. Are there other options? Would Gorilla Wood Glue work? I would strongly prefer to not have to deal with manually mixing ratios. Teak is too expensive to take a chance and have it turn out poorly. Your advice is appreciated!