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      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 

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Found 10 results

  1. Have applied 3 coats of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss per below and have thousands of microbubbles. thought I'd avoid lots of sanding and go with this product that can be recoated without sanding within 72 hrs and has rave reviews on this site, amazon, etc. ended up with a big mess. 1) coat 1 applied with china brush over west system cured for at least 6 months, sanded 220 and vacuumed/wiped with denatured alcohol rags 2) 24 hrs later lots of microbubbles that I thought were dust so sanded to 320 wiped with tack cloth as was worried about denatured alcohol potentially causing issues and recoated with brush again 3) 24 hrs later enormous number of bubbles (see attached photo) so sanded to 320 again, vacuumed and waited additional 24 hrs for dust to settle and wiped with denatured alcohol rags again and recoated with brush and immediately covered with new plastic dropcloth suspended 12 inches above surface and vented on both ends of boat. been 2 days since last coat and I have the mess you see in the spotlighted area of the attached photo completely covering all surfaces varnished. I've spent over 300 hrs on this custom west system/marine plywood driftboat and used mahogany and tiger maple so brightwork would be stunning but now have a mess. shop temp was consistent 70 degrees using heaters. what do you think is going on and how do I fix...?
  2. I have a mahogany veneer tiki bar top that I am looking to protect with either varnish or epoxy. Top is partially exposed to the elements. What durable coating would you recommend that will still allow the beauty and color of the wood to shine. Thank you
  3. I have a mahogany veneer tiki bar top that I am looking to protect with either varnish or epoxy. Top is partially exposed to the elements. What durable coating would you recommend that will still allow the beauty and color of the wood to shine. Thank you
  4. I'm building my first boat, a 16' stitch-and-glue kayak, and have a question regarding the finish. The entire hull will be fiber glassed. I would like to paint the waterline with Wet Edge and the rest of the boat with varnish. What should my process be? Should I apply the wet edge and then varnish over top of it, should I varnish then paint over the varnish, or should I mask and split the two? Also as some one new to the whole boat building thing, should I use Gleam or Lust varnish? Thanks
  5. I recently renamed my boat, which entailed sanding the transom to bare wood before the UV ghosting effect of the old name was eliminated. Then I applied 9 coats of Epifanes varnish, with one day drying time after each coat, then sanding with 320 before the next.How long should I let what I believe to be my final coat cure before applying the new vinyl name decal and then launching into the water? Thoughts welcome!
  6. I just bought an old Chris Craft that was refinished and then garage stored some years ago. I removed the vinyl boat name and there are "ghosts" left behind where the varnish was protected from the elements. My plan is to lightly sand (220 grit?) this otherwise great finish and then recoat, but with what? I want an easy to apply varnish for this boat transom. Use a foam roller? Thanks for any tips.
  7. I just finished building a 17' wood-strip kayak and purchased the Epifanes gloss varnish and brushing thinner. I brushed the varnish on the interior of the fiberglassed hull and the result was pretty good but, in my opinion, not worthy of brushing the exterior finish without a lot of sanding out the brush marks. So I have decided to use an HVLP sprayer to finish the exterior. I have two questions/issues: 1. Can I use the brushing thinner to thin the varnish for spraying or should I "bite the bullet" and purchase spraying thinner? 2. When using a viscosity cup, I have trouble determining when the varnish stream actually "breaks" for the first time. It seems like a simple process but I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or need to replace my eye glasses. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
  8. I bought a wooden hull that has been fiber-glassed and now I want to make the sides clear, showing the plywood grain. It is milky looking. Will it turn clear, becoming transparent when I apply varnish? Is there more to do besides the cleaning and surface prep? FYI: It is a Glen~L Zip. This is my first experience both building a boat and working with wood of any configuration. I am a true novice in all areas concerned.
  9. How often should varnish be re-applied? I have 2 Pygmy kayaks I build about 10 years ago. I applied 3 coat of Z Spar Captain's varnish. They are kept under cover all the time except when not used. The current varnish is in good shape but I don’t know how long the UV protection last.