• Announcements

    • skiptabor

      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Bob Bradley

Teak and Holly Cabin Sole Finishing

4 posts in this topic

I installed teak and holly veneer plywood on my salon deck about 8 years ago.  At the time I finished it with Epiphanes rubbed effect varnish.  It looked great for a few years, but over time, and after a couple dozen offshore fishing trips with 6 guys and their gear, it got pretty scratched up. 

 

Last season I sanded and top coated the deck, but it only made it worse, as the scratches got very dark and stood out even more.  Since they were all the way through the veneer, more sanding was not an option.

 

 

So, here I go again replacing the t&h.  My question is, what should I be putting on it as a finish?  One thought I had was to seal it with a couple coats of CPES and then top it with a good urethane, but I don't really want to experiment. 

 

What do you recommend?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If they are indentations in the surface, not a scratch with the material removed, I'd try to bring the grain back up using a wet cloth and a steam iron applied on it to heat up the fibers.  Small dents and dings will raise up.  You will need to remove any finish first and get down to bare wood.  It may raise it enough so only a light sanding is necessary.  I'd try a section first, use a varnish remover to remove the finish and get down to bare wood.  Rinse off any varnish remover and clean well, then try the wet towel and iron to life the scratches.  If it works you can salvage the teak and holly and not have to replace it.  

 

As far as a finish.  I'd recommend first coating it with a clear penetrating epoxy sealer like TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy Sealer thinned with 25% acetone, mixed well apply until it doesn't soak in anymore.  This will raise the grain and takes 4 to 5 days to totally cure.  Sand smooth then apply about 5 coats of finish.  

 

For a hard finish, you could use a varnish or a urethane.  The urethane might hold up better.  Interlux Perfection Plus Two Part Varnish Interlux Perfection Plus varnish is a clear, two-part polyurethane high gloss finish for wood and epoxy. This high-clarity, high gloss marine varnish provides superior UV protection and prolonged resistance to chemicals and abrasion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will be replacing it.  Some of the scratches are completely through the veneer to the substrate.  I've used Smith's CPES in the past to seal some mahogany knees I had cut and I found that it darkened the wood quite a bit.  Does the TotalBoat CPES do the same?  Are there any compatibility issues I need to worry about between the CPES and the urethane?

 

Finally, is the high gloss more slippery than a less glossy surface?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Totalboat Penetrating Epoxy will darken it the same as applying a varnish on the teak.  The epoxy is a good base coat/sealer for either varnish or urethane.  I do feel that the satin is a little less slippery than a high gloss, but not much.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0