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Bob_S

Penetrating epoxy, varnish,over teak trim (winter project)

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Hello All -  have just finished watching some videos on using penetrating epoxy and varnish on wooden boat seats and trim.None of the videos showed them using this system on teak. Unless there are reasons not to, I'd like to use this process on my teak trim. I have an "88 Mako with the original teak trim, not a lot of it and none of it is decking or surfaces that are walked on. The teak I do have is old and has been cleaned many times by scrubbing so is pretty worn.  Anyway, I'm wondering if those of you with a lot more experience than me think this would work out well or is the teak, even 30 year old teak, still too oily to work for this. Thanks in advance! - Bob S.

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Penetrating will work well to seal the teak prior to varnish.  After cleaning and sanding, wipe with acetone to remove any oils and contamination.  Thin the first coat 25% with acetone so it penetrates further.  (note: this will darken the teak in appearance)  Apply a second coat unthinned after the first coat has dried and been washed with water, sand with 220 grit.  Allow the second coat to dry 3 to 5 days depending on temperature, wash and sand with 220 grit and apply the first coat of varnish thinned only enough to flow well.

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Thanks so much Rick..do these instructions apply to Jamestown"s penetrating epoxy with the cold temp hardener (crystal clear?)

Again, Thank you.

Best

Bob S

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Yes the same process whether it's the regular or cold formula.  The cold weather penetrating epoxy only use between 40 and 65 degrees.  Any warmer than that use the regular formula.

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