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      The future of the JD Forum   07/31/18

      Thank you all for your participation on the JD Forums.  We have enjoyed answering your questions, providing project advice and technical assistance on this forum for a number of years. We believe that there are now better ways to provide this service for our customers and the community. With that in mind, we have made the difficult decision to discontinue the Jamestown Distributors Forum.   Our JD Tech Team is committed to being your trusted technical resource, and we encourage you to reach out via email, phone, social, product reviews, and to post questions using the Q & A 'Ask A Question' function on all product pages. Additional information can also be found on product page Technical Data Sheets (including detailed usage instructions and application data).   Thank You Jamestown Distributors 
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RickW

Bilge Pump Float Switch Test

2 posts in this topic

The first thing to do is determine if the pump us working in manual.  If it is, then you know that the pump is working.

 

Next lift up the float to see if the pump comes on.  If it doesn't then you will need to check the wiring to see if it is sound.  Check the connections to be sure they are not corroded or loose and broken.  If the connections appear to be sound, lift the float again to see if the pump comes on.  If not remove the float switch, cut the connections.

 

Using a multi-meter set on ohms, place the black negative lead on one wire and the red positive on the other.  Lift the float to see if you get an ohm reading.  If nothing you will need to replace the float switch.  If it shows a weak reading check the wires to see if they have corroded.  They may be corroded on the end of the wires impeding the current flow, cut back some wire and insulation to see if it's better, retest to see if you get a better reading.  If not you may still need to replace the float switch.

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